Customer experience
Switchback Coffee Roasters turns 15 and refocuses Hillside hub; remembering Bar Mom; openings, closings and updates; new Indian food in Fort Collins + more food & drink news & events
*Before we jump into this week’s newsletter, I want to acknowledge the passing of “Bar Mom” Sally Wood this past week. She was a great friend to the industry and will be missed by so many people in our bartending community in particular. Please read or scroll to the bottom of this newsletter for my Parting Shot remembrance of Sally. And if you’re someone whose life she touched, no matter how briefly, then pour a drink for her and tip it back in her honor.
Thanksgiving is obviously upon us, so I’m going to keep this week’s newsletter a little shorter and more digestible. You have places to be, people to see, and things to cook. That said, if you’re still scrambling last-minute to throw some things together, Gather Food Studio offers this holiday recipe compendium for your needs. And our monthly collaboration recipe with Ranch Foods Direct, below, would totally work on a Thanksgiving spread, especially given the cranberry component. Good luck, be well.
Switchback gets back to its origins in year 15
Switchback Coffee Roasters just celebrated its 15-year anniversary as a roastery, also passing the decade mark at its Shooks Run Cafe and five years at its Hillside location.
While everything’s status quo at the older cafe, which it so say consistently excellent, Hillside recently underwent several changes to “get back to a coffee experience here,” in the words of owner Brandon DelGrosso. I catch him manning the order counter on a recent weekday morning. He connects me with Switchback’s Director of Coffee, Clare Hannon. She and I sit and sip coffees while we chat, inside what’s now called Switchback Roastery & Brew Bar (instead of Hillside Cafe).
Why the change? Because they literally moved their coffee roaster into the back corner of the space, visible to guests as they enter to order drinks.
The reason? “Ten years ago our roastery was at the center of the experience,” explains Hannon, referring to the Shooks Run storefront that later became more seating space for the cafe as it expanded, pushing the roaster to a warehouse off Platte Avenue.
“The roaster keeps the coffee process in front of guest,” she says. “It provides a connection that spotlights the intentionality of our roasting and sourcing. It points the conversation back to the producer and highlights them.”
Switchback reps go on origin trips to meet their direct trade partners, to countries like Colombia and El Salvador. “It’s an opportunity for them to host us and show off their work,” Hannon says. “Our producers are getting better and better. It’s on the production side of coffee where the interesting stuff is happening.”
That tracks with what Hold Fast Coffee Co.’s Operations Manager Vinnie Snyder told Side Dish back in August, that “a lot of the innovation is happening at the farm/producer level.” Similar to how Hold Fast recently created Reception as a slow bar to spotlight their roasts and tell the coffee farmers’ stories, Switchback wants the Roastery & Brew Bar experience to stand apart from the busier Shooks Run Cafe.
They’re now highlighting rotating single origins at the Brew Bar through cappuccinos, cortados and one-and-one pours (which are a split double shot of espresso; half left alone and the other infused with a small volume of milk to highlight the respective bean pure and as it tastes with a slight creamy/sweet contrast).
Presently, there’s a Nicaraguan bean highlighted from Gold Mountain Coffee Growers, one of the company’s direct-trade relationships. It’s a natural process coffee (where the cherry is left to dry on the bean after harvest, allowing the fruit pulp to impart more flavor) from a high-altitude farm in the north-central part of the country. The retail bag’s tasting notes list mango, Manuka honey and baklava, noting “ripe and fruity sweetness, with praline notes as distinct as it is complex.”
As highfalutin as coffee descriptors can sometimes be, the accuracy is dead-on here, actually helping me form words around what I’m tasting. Hannon has made me a spectacularly good cappuccino that’s bursting with fruitiness. It’s the most exciting coffee I’ve sipped since the passionfruit co-fermented Colombian coffee Golden Pine Coffee Roasters did for their new FancyPants Series a few months ago.
At a cappuccino’s ratio of milk, the notably chocolatey element of the Nicaraguan bean rides just on the line between tasting like a milk or dark chocolate. In the long, beautiful finish on the palate, it starts to taste like the residual cacao fade from a bite of bean-to-bar Third Wave Chocolate. (Which is to say exquisite. I’m a chocoholic.)
Now here I am sounding all snooty, but that’s not Hannon’s goal with the Brew Bar. “My desire is to create a space that doesn’t have to feel set apart to feel exceptional. Not shrouded in exclusivity,” she says.
“Speciality coffee isn’t meant to alienate you from coffee. It’s meant to bring you in. I want to plant it right in front of you with the roastery. It’s saying ‘you’re welcome to every part of the process.’”
Soon, that may include coffee cuppings (tastings). Hannon and her team already cup twice weekly to try every batch of single roast beans for quality control. But they’re considering launching community cupping events as part of programming to plug patrons in more directly.
Know before you go a significant change at the Roastery & Brew Bar: They’ve done away with cooking on site, which ironically is where the company’s sister outfit Provision Bread & Bakery originally stemmed from. To place full focus on the coffee program, they’ve limited eats to some sandwiches brought in from the Shooks Run Cafe plus pastries and goodies from Provision, including bagels and granola. So you can snack, but it’s really all about the beans now.
Bites & Bits
• The Broadmoor was selected for Forbes Travel Guide’s new Hotel Icons List, culled from spots with “more than 100 years, continuous operation under the same name and a distinguished Five-Star rating.” Only 23 places internationally were recognized.
• Peak Empanadas & Latin Bites food truck recently celebrated its grand opening and is parked regularly at 4650 N. Nevada Ave. (next to the now-defunct Señor Manuel). Their menu includes several empanada variants plus Cuban sandwiches and sides like yucca fries and tostones.
• Trinity Brewing has closed its Forge Brewery location as of Nov. 14, noting that new tenants are on the way in to the facility, which is receiving a “huge makeover.”
• The Colorado Springs Voodoo Brewing Co. has made some recent changes that are a “pivot into the needs of our customers” in the words of owner Micah Maffeo. I stopped by last week to catch up with him briefly and enjoy a taster paddle of brews. (They have a respectable guest-tap list on at the moment with some fun seasonal flavors like a gingerbread cream ale, pumpkin lager and winter stout.) Maffeo says the biggest improvement they’ve launched is table service: “For anyone who wrote us a bad review online complaining about having to order at the bar, we got you,” he says.
They’ve also recently negotiated with distributors and realized some lower beer prices, which they’re passing along to customers, partly in the form of 16-ounce pours for select beers which used to be 12-ounce pours at around the same price. Lastly, they’ve added sports packages on their TVs by request, so you can now catch your Avs game or whatever. Maffeo says people have tended to treat Voodoo more like a restaurant than a taphouse, with over half of his monthly sales being food items. So operating more like a brewery and European beer hall format-wise didn’t make business sense anymore. “We have to adjust who we are to our clientele,” he says.
• Here’s 10 Holiday Food Festivities You Don’t Want to Miss, courtesy Springs Magazine.
Quick hits in Fort Collins
From my past reporting, you know I get to Fort Collins somewhat regularly and like to keep tabs on their food and drink scene. I passed through last weekend and we hit a four-month old spot: Indigo Modern Indian Cuisine & Bar. My local fixer told me that Bawarchi (which he’d taken us to a few years ago) was the prior standard-bearer, but word-of-mouth has quickly propelled Indigo into the forefront. While we’re in, I chat up the co-owner, who tells me he’s coming from six years in the industry in Aspen, while his chef has cooked in Denver most recently. He says they’re representing all regions of India with the menu and at turns creating fusions between some of them.
From an Indo-Chinese starters list we nab a plate of Beetroot Tikki that are like the beet equivalent of falafel, fried crispy with zesty seasonings and served with a mint chutney sauce for dipping. We also share Lamb Rogan Josh, Lamb Vindaloo, Smoked Dal Makhani and Mango-Lime Chicken with sides of rosemary, mint-basil and truffle-Parmesan naan breads.
We were so curious about the truffle-Parmesan naan that we had to try it; it was the only miss of the whole meal, covered in too much Parmesan crumble that’s the cheap salty kind you overuse on spaghetti as a kid. I could however see where the truffle component would compliment our lamb items were it left to work solo. Both the other naan breads were great, the lesser-seen rosemary in particular working wonderfully with the gamey lamb. Of the two, the vindaloo had more character, bright with almost fruity acidity and spice.
The smoke element on the black lentils was also nice, and they ate better than most renditions around. The Mango-Lime Chicken proved the sleeper hit, though, harboring faintly sweet honey notes and eating more like a typical butter chicken, rich and creamy. I also nab a hot chai to sip on and a worthwhile mocktail (the full ingredients of which I neglected to document and can’t find online), made with rose-infused almond milk and garnished with dried flower crumbles and shaved almonds.
Before we take off back to the Springs, we stop by my favorite Fort Collins coffee spot (and arguably its best), Harbinger, to fill our to-go mugs for the drive. From the seasonal specialties menu displayed on a chalkboard in the window we can’t resist the Carrot Cake Latte (hot) and Bourbon Pecan Nitro Latte (cold).
The first one nails the flavors its paying tribute to, with light baking spices and fresh carrot taste riding on the deep coffee notes. It’s predictably a little sweet, but not too much so. It’s still craft, not cloying. An oat milk sub plays well in it, as it does in the Bourbon Pecan Nitro Latte. Made with real bourbon and toasted pecans in nitro-infused iced coffee, it’s a whiskey-lover’s kinda of coffee (not actually boozy like an Irish coffee), strong and cacao-laced with a velvety texture. Hell of a sip.
Oh — and if you want to try a Carrot Cake Latte closer to home, Reception is also serving one at the moment, made with carrot juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, vanilla and brown sugar. (What? You still haven’t been to Reception yet? Tisk tisk.)
Side Dish Dozen happenings
Edelweiss: Our famous Christmas Stollen (traditional German Christmas bread made with nuts, dried fruits, cream cheese and marzipan) is available through early January. Loaves are $19 and available for pickup at the restaurant, or we can ship to your friends and family for you. Our pastry cases in our foyer all well-stocked with many other homemade sweet treats, from smaller pastries to traditional European pies.
Gold Star Bakery: Make your Christmas and December holidays sweet as pie! Our Christmas pre-order window is now open. Order your pies and treats through Dec. 17 for Dec 22-23 pickup at Ivywild School. Choose from Dutch Apple, Bourbon Pecan, Four Berry, Salted Maple, and Pumpkin Pie. Gluten-free options available.
Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar: Join us for holiday events during December: Sugar cookie decorating on Dec. 2 and 17. A Christmas PJ Day on Dec. 9 (come dressed up and get a free treat). And Ugly Holiday Sweater Day Dec. 23 (come dressed up and get a free treat). Come in all month for our special Jolly Jax menu featuring festive cocktails and shared plates.
Goat Patch Brewing: Enjoy live music with the Chinaflower Suncats, 5-7 p.m., Nov. 28 at Lincoln Center. Return from 5-9 p.m., Dec. 2 for Bleating Heart Night with Citizens Project; we donate $1/pint. At our Northgate taproom, catch Monday Night Football, 6-9 p.m., Dec. 1. And at Pikes Peak Brewing join us from 5-7 p.m., Nov. 28 for live acoustic music with Annette & Doug Conlon.
Wobbly Olive: Every weekday happy hour at both locations is 4-6 p.m.; all cocktails and beers are half off, plus $5 house wines. From our new food menu, come in for fall flavors like our Autumn Flatbread with maple butter-roasted butternut squash, apple brandy caramelized onions, blue cheese and balsamic glaze. For dessert: What the hell is an “invisible apple cake”? Find out.
Nacho Matrix: Come see us for brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Saturdays and Sundays, where you’ll find items like elote chilaquiles, steak & egg nachos, our vegan breakfast burrito and tres leches french toast. Start or finish with strawberry cheesecake churro bites. Pair your meal with a bottomless mimosa or espresso martini.
Upcoming events
Nov. 29: Small Business Saturday Makers Market at the Ivywild School Gym. 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Coffee and cocktails from the P.O., breakfast and lunch at Ivywild Kitchen, gift card deals and lots of local vendors.
Nov. 29: 4th annual Winter(ish) Market at Lost Friend Brewing. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; with 40-plus vendors, food treats and drinks from the brewery.
Nov. 29: Local Relic’s Small Brew Saturday at The Carter Payne. Noon to 4 p.m.
Dec. 2: Neon Poker Night(s) at Cocktails After Dusk. 6-9 p.m. every Tuesday. $5 drinks; get an extra $100 in poker chips per dry good donated to Care & Share.
Dec. 4: Angel’s Envy Whiskey Dinner at The Penrose Room at The Broadmoor. 6 p.m. Meet the master distiller; get sips of highly allocated spirits and enjoy a communal dinner. $400.
Dec. 4: Holiday Wine Dinner at My Cellar Wine Bar. 6-9 p.m.; $80 includes four wine-paired courses.
Dec. 5: Prohibition Era Party at Urban Animal Beer Co. 5 p.m.; costume prizes, 10 cent Kolsch beers.
Dec. 11: Beer, Blood, and Blame! A Murder Mystery Beer Dinner at Cerberus Brewing Co. 6 p.m.; $50 for three beer-paired courses.
Dec. 14: Gingergread House Contest at Red Leg Brewing Co. 6-7:30 p.m. Tickets required to compete, or come spectate and watch the action.
Dec. 14: Sip with Schnip Brunch Bash at Kangaroo Coffee Hillside. Details to follow.
Parting shot(s)
As I sat down to pen my own eulogy for Sally Wood this week, I came to a somewhat eerie realization: In a way, we wrote her eulogy together last summer when I produced the “Bar Mom” story for Side Dish.
Unknowingly, of course. But during the process of doing Sally’s bar rounds with her one night, then conducting half a dozen follow-up interviews, I found myself speaking with all the people that knew her best. Her closest friends. More family, really.
It’s everyone I would have reached out to this week for a quote about her as I sought to commemorate her. I would have asked for them to tell me a little about her and their relationship and what she meant to them. But that work is already done. It’s all there in the story. We know exactly how special Sally was to this rough group of “misfits.”
Anything needing to be reiterated has been scrolled across Facebook this week, as individual tributes poured in.
I don’t often have time to revisit my own written work, as I’m always on to the next thing(s), but I took a moment to re-read Sally’s story and mentally revisit the moments of capturing it. I found it particularly poignant that we talked about her desire to help co-finance and open a new cocktail bar with her young industry friends. “It could be a rewarding late chapter of life,” she’d said.
That finally came to fruition on Halloween, when Sally and Jacob Pfund opened Rebel Rebel. From accounts I’ve heard, there was a deep satisfaction felt by Sally in that — a beautiful conclusion to a long journey. A drink at the counter of her own bar. Ultimately another of her gifts to all of us.
As we stated in her story, these last many years of Sally doing her weekly rounds and visiting all her beloved bars and bartenders was all about connection over cocktails and creating community in the wake of a significant death (her husband John, in 2012).
“I go out to see my bartenders so I can get a hug and kiss and be told “I love you Sally,” she’d said.
Now, it’s our turn to mourn and grieve Sally and move along feeling the void of her absence.
Sometimes in telling a story you struggle to find the heart of it and convey the salient, essential point. That wasn’t the case when writing about Sally. She told me in her own words exactly the point of (the soul of) her story:
“It’s a story about how one person has tried to get over grief and loneliness, and found some great people — a whole community of great people,” she’d said.
We live on with that knowledge, that we were part of someone special and something bigger than all of us as individuals. Sally’s spirit lives on with us. Cheers to Bar Mom.
