Espresso martini magic
Reception finds a unique niche for coffee and cocktails as a Hold Fast spinoff; Lauren discovers fabulous fried pickles; what to eat at Ford Amphitheater + food & drink news
The former Almagre event space at 2460 Montebello Square Dr. (next door to Lost Friend Brewing Co.) ceased events at the end of July to transition to something fresh, with both coffee and cocktail focuses.
Though part of the new enterprise still includes event space (in a smaller “chandelier room” for 50; or bigger buyout option that includes the front bar), owner Grace Harrison says she saw an opportunity to grow her other neighboring business, 12-year old Hold Fast Coffee Co., to create a unique, new “coffee tasting experience” by day and an evening cocktail program partly informed by Hold Fast’s products. (The roastery has moved into the rear third of the building and significantly expanded.)
Meet Reception, which soft opened last week. We visited over the weekend for a thorough tasting and tour with Harrison. The space exudes an elegant vibe, with an interior refresh and addition to the existing bar of a cold brew tower and espresso machine. “The name ‘Reception’ refers to the act of receiving people,” she says. “It’s an entrance to something special, like we’ve been waiting for you.”
What it also is: something that’s found a food-accompanied drink niche heretofore missing in town. Yes, craft coffee shops and cocktail bars abound, but nobody with the capability (i.e. a roastery/coffee shop with a liquor license) has paired the two in quite this way.
In the morning and early afternoon (8 a.m. to 2 p.m., Thursday-Sunday), Reception serves more elaborate coffee drinks than Hold Fast’s quick-service allows. So guests here can get a pour over, Aeropress, cold brew, traditional espresso drink, or designed coffee drink (such as a black sesame honey latte or maple-bourbon cappuccino) in a setting that allows the baristas to converse more and share education about the products, as if at a wine bar. “It allows our team to design the best form for each coffee,” says Harrison. “We see ourselves as the storytellers between the coffee farmers and the consumers. We can’t do that at Hold Fast. We had to stop doing pourovers there years ago because they were backing up the line through the door.”
Yes, you can still work from your laptop and lounge at Reception. In fact, there’s no to-go option on coffees, to encourage mindful lingering and appreciation of the drinks. There’s only daily pastries purveyed from Boonzaaijer’s Dutch Bakery, so Hold Fast should still be your go-to for sandwiches and bigger bites.
At Reception, more of Hold Fast’s roasts are on display, versus just the ‘spro and drip of the day. What that looks like currently: a Guatemalan, two Costa Rican (including a rare Gesha varietal) and a Papua New Guinean bean available (displaying washed, natural and anaerobic natural processes between them) in your choice of brew method. “We can bring in more coffees to showcase now,” she says.
At night (Thursday-Saturday, 4-9 p.m.) — and I’m skipping right to the highlight, here — patrons will find a diverse and alluring build-your-own-espresso-martini menu (starting at $14, with optional add-ons). It begins with a choice of five spirits. You then pick one of three cold brew coffees, and you can add “a little flair” with extra ingredients like a simple lemon twist, Creme de Cacao (or Framboise), Ancho Reyes Chili Liqueur and Licor 43 (for Carajillo fanatics like me).
We try a gin-Costa Rica-lemon twist concoction and a bourbon-House Blend-Amaro Di Angostura creation, appreciating their notable differences. Unlike generic coffee liqueur-influenced espresso martinis that abound, Reception’s drinks hold individual character that speaks to everything from the coffee’s terroir to booze’s backbone and adjuncts’ essences. The bourbon variation has a deep, rich Manhattan vibe, while the gin one sips more subtle and evocative of botanicals and floral essence with a citrus kiss. Like great cocktails, they have a beginning, middle and end to their stories.
Outside of the espresso martinis you’ll find a cocktail menu broken into three sections. First up: half a dozen house creations ($16), such as a cool Cascara Caipirinha that incorporates a housemade cascara (dried coffee cherry) cordial. (In the morning you’ll find an N/A cascara yuzu soda.) Then a “something borrowed” list ($15) of staff-favorite cocktails from other bartenders, such as an Earl Grey Marteani (yes, it’s spelled that way — get it?) out of New York City. Last, there’s just under a dozen classics ($14; only $7 at happy hour, 4-5 p.m., Thursday-Saturday), like a Negroni, Aviation and even an old-school Cosmopolitan.
One drink, priced at $22, stands apart from the list. That’s the High Fashioned, an Old Fashioned riff made with Small Batch Calumet (a blend of eight and 15 year bourbons), orange flower maple, cardamom and black walnut bitters. We sipped it; whiskey aficionados should find it pretty outstanding.
Final notes on drinks: beers are only represented by limited, rotating locals (not on draft), as Reception wants to support Lost Friend Brewing next door. For wines, they’ve tapped local sommelier legend Michael Buckelew (“Bucky”) from Stelvio Selections (you’ve surely seen him at Hillside Gardens’ summer concerts). He’s created a short but diverse list that ranges from a lesser-seen Swiss white (from the Chasselas grape varietal) to a Spanish Rioja and higher-end Napa Cab.
On to bites: BC’s Barbecue catering and food truck owners/chefs Randy and Sarah Hickey have created the small menu and are currently running it from Reception’s equally small kitchen. (They tell me they literally enjoy more room on their truck.) They’ll still set up Tuesdays from noon to 8 p.m. at Lost Friend Brewing — hence the connection — and they have some bigger aspirations for brick-and-mortar down the line, which are currently under wraps. (You might recall Randy’s name from when he won a Knife Fight at Eleven18 at the beginning of the year.)
The longterm plan is to create Reception’s seasonal menus and oversee the food production. The Hickeys have been private cheffing for 15 years, so Reception’s menu doesn’t suffer from any rookie missteps. It’s dialed, in-part to be attuned to Harrison’s vision for the space and some of her favorite bites. That explains the fabulous, perfectly crispy shoestring truffle fries with robust truffle flavor from oil and salt, served with chives and ketchup and a bright lemon-herb aioli. The fries, fried in beef tallow, are bought but well curated, not softening or going limp even half an hour from hitting the table thanks to the commercial crunch coating.
Harrison prefers them with Champagne, which she also finds requisite for the one wild (as in pricey) item on the menu, a Royal Osetra Caviar spread for $128. (The menu otherwise ranges from $9 to $19). She order it for us to photograph and share between four of us. It features an ounce of the good stuff with blini (mini crêpes), pommes dauphine (gourmet AF tater tots, made with choux pastry and mashed potatoes), and crème fraîche, chives, minced shallots, cooked egg white and yolk to be spread and garnished as you please.
That leaves some pretty phenomenal saffron arancini, made traditionally and executed perfectly, plated with thick shavings of Parmesan on top and seated in a tart marinara. Then tuna tataki with tamari, kewpie mayo, sesame, and serrano and sriracha sauces, plus radish and microgreen garnishes. Pork belly street tacos (with an optional tofu sub to make it vegan or vegetarian) feature Palisade peaches for the season in a pico, with peanut salsa seca and cilantro and cotija garnishes. The Hickeys have made the tacos before as a truck special to test them, smoking the meat ahead then pan frying to crisp it and sweat the fat. They’re unctuous, with big smoke flavor.
A final savory item that shows off legit cookery for such a small menu (and tiny kitchen) are the short rib sliders. Again, they’re much more interesting than the average renditions elsewhere. Wanting to create something unexpected and elegant, Randy explains that he braises the ribs then turns them into panko- and breadcrumb-coated croquets, fried to-order. He reserves the demi-glace to infuse an aioli, adds aged cheddar to the stack plus a roasted cremini mushroom to create umami, and final garnishes with pickled red onion and jalapeño for acid contrast.
We’d started our sampling with a crab cake and sweet corn amuse bouche, and we finish with samples of both desserts: a classic tiramisu made with Hold Fast coffee (of course), and a straightforward but flawless crème brûlée. That’s when we drink our custom espresso martinis and relish in all the flavors. Reception makes a strong case to be an after-dinner spot to close your evening if you aren’t wanting to fully dine on the small plates. Despite the familiar aspects, it’s something refreshingly unique.
*Related: If you missed Side Dish’s late August interview with Hold Fast Coffee Co’s Roaster and Operations Manager Vinnie Snyder, check it out here. It’s a chat for true coffee nerds but also explores the future bounds of craft coffee.
Featured at last month’s Sip with Schnip at Elephant Thai, Kaeng hang le Northern Thai Pork Curry is made here with Callicrate beef pork shoulder from Ranch Foods Direct. The flavors are rich, deep and complex, bright with tart tamarind and earthy from red chiles, with pops of lemongrass, galangal, ginger and garlic. The dish comes together easily and slow cooks to further tenderize the pork. Enjoy!
An ode to fried pickles
By Lauren Hug
Confession: I LOVE fried pickles. That’s what drew me to Daddy’s Chicken Shack — which opened in the Springs in March, 2024 off Voyager Parkway. I’ve had a million good fast-food chicken sandwiches in my life, but good fried pickles are harder to find.
So, I’m pleased to report that the pickles at Daddy’s Chicken Shack are weirdly magical. The batter somehow seeps into the pickle, giving it a buttermilk tang. I’d happily eat those pickles naked. In fact, I recommend “skinning” one or two to try them both batterless and battered for two unique flavor and texture experiences.
The classic chicken sandwich is good too. The sauce is a balanced sweet-tangy combo and the bun is so soft my fingers left little dimples when I positioned it for photos. Its slight sweetness is a nice compliment for the spices in the chicken itself.
On a staff recommendation, I tried the all-day breakfast burrito with green chili. The chili adds a welcome kick, the potatoes have just the right bite, and even the tortilla’s got some character to it. But the crispy chicken lost its crunch when smothered with the other ingredients — grilled would probably be the way to go.
The fries were meh. Skip them and order the pickles instead.
Service was friendly and fast. I asked about the impact Ford Amphitheater has on crowds at the restaurant, and a staffer shared that the place gets slammed on nights when a country act performs, but stays quieter for non-country acts, like Cake. The staffer humorously wondered out loud if Cake fans don’t like southern-style chicken sandwiches. I say they’re missing out on some great fried pickles.
Showtime dining
By Lauren Hug
Speaking of Ford Amphitheater, I finally saw my first concert there (Weird Al, if you’re wondering). And because I’m the partner of a food writer, I walked the entire venue to see all the culinary options currently available — until the upscale restaurant and rooftop bars make their debut in the near future. [Editor’s note: Last I heard from their PR, Roth’s Sea & Steak is tentatively set for a November opening sometime.]
Colorado Springs Locals:
The Original Dr. Taco. Food truck serving Mayan Peninsula–inspired tacos. The Amphitheater menu offered beef, shrimp, chicken, vegetarian and Mayan pulled pork tacos, and the same meats plus queso as nacho options. The salsa bar boasts six different salsas, and the truck also serves churros for dessert.
Josh & John’s Ice Cream. Iconic Colorado Springs ice cream shop serving some of their greatest hits out of the purple Scoop Bus. You can’t go wrong with their Purple Mountain Majesty (taro with chocolate covered raspberry truffles and a black raspberry swirl).
Pikes Peak Lemonade. The Downtown Tejon Street biz ventures up north for concerts, serving organic lemonades both cold (classic, hibiscus, lavender or dragonfruit) and warmed (candied apple or lavender).
Scratch Mobile Kitchen. The comfort-food truck offers a classic or deluxe burger and fries combo. The burgers are grass-fed beef on toasted brioche bun, with the option of adding cheddar cheese and/or bacon. Deluxe comes with mixed greens, tomato, onion, pickle and Scratch sauce. You can also just get a side of fries.
Vendors are both local and from the wider region.
Non-Springs Vendors:
Johnny Boy Eatz. This catering company turned food truck may qualify as a Springs local now since the Gazette reported owner Johnny Rivera-Hernandez has switched up his business model to making food for the Amphitheater full time. Their Instagram page says it caters in Springs, Denver and surrounding areas. The Amphitheater menu includes several varieties of empandas and a cubano.
Billy’s Gourmet Hot Dogs. You can go for a Chicago-style dog, Coney dog, several bratwurst options (including elk), and even a veggie dog at this Denver-based vendor.
Chillville by Chillco Drinks. Frozen cocktail station from Chillco Drinks, a Denver-based brand.
Opa Greek Eats. After considering all the choices, my daughter and I opted to order from this Greek food cart that appears to make the rounds of Colorado concert venues and festivals. She couldn’t resist the loaded fries, piled with well-seasoned gyro meat. I went with a classic gyro served in a soft, fluffy pita with lots of black olives and a flavorful tzatziki sauce. It was a bit messy for a hand-held concert food, but I was able to use her fries container to salvage the portion that started to come apart.
Ford Amphitheater has its own market serving barbecue pork sandwiches, burrito and wrap choices, a hot dog, charcuterie and other snacks, candy and drinks. There’s also a classic fair/festival food cart with funnel cakes, curly fries and corndogs.
Bites & Bits
• Culinary Connections’ October menu features a Cuban-Brazilian fusion, cooked by area refugees at First United Methodist Church. Order here. More on the program here.
• 5280’s Food Editor Mark Antonation selected The 25 Best Restaurants in Denver This Year based on first asking himself “what ‘best’ means to us and to readers?” A central criteria revolved around a sense of “value” and what a diner gets for their money. He also asks, “Are you going to leave happy, full, invigorated, surprised?” His list includes both new and longstanding spots.
• My friend and fellow Substack writer, podcaster (and more) Nick Raven, of The Raven Express, recently invited me on his podcast, Badly Needed & Long Overdue. We dish on food and drink a bit, but actually talk more about wider community issues in a very free-flow format. (Yes, I have other opinions and am more than just a food journalist. But you knew that, considering my prior post about my lumberjack-themed OnlyFans page called Side Split.) Check it out, and support Nick’s work:
• Denver-based New Denizen just dropped her latest batch of 7 new restaurants you should know about. One is an F1 Arcade (with racing simulators), another is a small-batch bakery named Moon Raccoon, and the list concludes with a Malaysian spot.
• Death By Cheesecake has moved to 5867 Palmer Park Blvd., to share space with the also-recently-relocated Samich Shack.
• Whirlyball wants to be your sports spot, and has created deals and packages around game days. You can watch Switchbacks FC matches and Colorado Buffaloes games (and get a free hour of Whirlyball play afterwards) as well as NFL programming. A $40 walk-in package (minimum six) includes pizza and beers, and pre-bookings include private seating areas.
• Plan ahead for your Halloween Party. Consider making these pumpkin whoopie pies with cream cheese filling from Season Two Taste. Or maybe Gather Food Studio’s Vegan Mexican Chocolate Mousse (not specifically a holiday item, but it could be garnished with some type of Day of the Dead-style treatment if you’re feeling creative.) Or purchase some Candy Corn Queenets from The French Kitchen.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
Edelweiss: Join us for our weekly Oktoberfest specials! Through Oct. 12 enjoy Krustenbraten, a beer-glazed pork roast with mashed potatoes, seasonal vegetables and horseradish cream sauce. Oct. 13-19 find Mini Schweinshaxe, pork knuckles in pork gravy with sauerkraut and potatoes. Add an Oktoberfest beer to either dish for just $5.
Stellina Pizza Cafe: Last chance for Pizza Bella Verdura. The fall special ends Oct 12! Our “Beautiful Vegetable” pie starts on sourdough with garlic oil and is loaded with artichoke, roasted red bell pepper, arugula and ricotta cheese, then finished with a drizzle of house-made chili oil. Add spicy Italian sausage for an extra zesty bite! 🌶️ Also, limited seats remain for our Oct. 27 Stellina Supper Club; reserve now.
Kangaroo Coffee: We’re thrilled to have partnered with Goodie Bag and their fine platform committed to a more sustainable and affordable food system! October events keep hopping with the UCCS Mountain Lion Fall Invitational Tennis Tournament this weekend at Memorial Park and the Manitou 5K on Saturday. Fueled by Kanga Brew! Stayed tuned for World Kangaroo Day fun later this month.
Goat Patch Brewing: Catch the Kris Mayotte Coaches Show for CC Tiger Hockey, 6 p.m., Oct. 14 at Lincoln Center, with $1 off Tigers Tail Blonde Ale. Free Comedy Show at our Northgate taproom, 7-9:30 p.m, Oct. 16. Music Bingo at Pikes Peak Brewing, 6:30-9 p.m., Oct. 16. And catch Tuesday Trivia nights, 6:30-9 p.m.
Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar: October is National Seafood Month and no one does seafood like Jax. Dive into an ocean of flavor with a Japanese-inspired menu crafted by the one and only Chef Sheila Lucero. Find items like miso-sesame roasted halibut and a Lobster Katsu Sando. Plus: beverage specials all month long.
Wobbly Olive: Every weekday happy hour at both locations is 4-6 p.m.; all cocktails and beers are half off, plus $5 house wines. Check out our extensive mocktail menu with more than a dozen creative N/A cocktails.
Odyssey Gastropub: Our new fall menu drops soon, so come enjoy your favorite plates on our summer menu before they’re gone. At Nacho Matrix, come for our Oaxaca Wednesdays. Or daily Happy Hours, 3-6 p.m., Monday-Friday; 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Saturday-Sunday. Our catering arm is also selling build-your-own nacho bar party packs for 4-6 people, starting at $50.
Upcoming events
Oct. 9: Baon After Dusk dinner with Baon Supper Club at Cocktails After Dusk. $89 includes four cocktail-paired courses.
Oct. 9-11: Great American Beer Festival in Denver. New this year: The Distilling Experience.
Oct. 10: Pumpkin Fest at Venetucci Farm. 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Hayrides, makers market, games and much more.
Oct. 10: Mustard-Themed Dinner Party at Colonel Mustard’s. 6 p.m.; four courses with options, all featuring mustard in some aspect, $35.
Oct. 11: Fall Fest at Ranch Foods Direct Town Center Location. Noon to 4 p.m. Free burgers and fries plus rib and barbacoa samples, plus local vendor spotlight.
Oct. 11: Pick A Pumpkin Fall Festival at Meanwhile Block. 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Oct. 11: Small Brew Saturday with Local Relic at The Carter Payne. “Beers! Bites! Bob!” Noon to 4 p.m.
Oct. 12: 6th Annual Fall Fest at Lost Friend Brewing. 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Oct. 12: Sunday Supper Club at Red Gravy.
Oct. 13-19: Tapateria 15th anniversary celebration. Daily specials, including BOGO’s, extended happy hours, drink deals and a Sunday Birthday Paella.
Oct. 18: Community Book Fair at Red Leg Brewing Co. Local authors, a mobile bookstore pop-up, and of course, beers. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
*Oct. 23: Rare Barrel Community Dinner at Bristol Brewing Co. 6:30 p.m.; $120 all inclusive. Sneak peek of first-ever barrel aged Imperial Warlock; rare bottles of Belgian Saison and Old No. 23 Barley Wine from the Bristol archives; first of its kind Venetucci Pumpkin Ale ice cream from Josh & John’s! Food menu also to include Ranch Foods Direct pork belly pastrami and smoked brisket with Smokebrush Porter pan sauce. Very limited seating. Reserve early. Side Dish is co-presenting.
Oct. 23: Wine Exploration 2: Red Wines with Sophie Yoneoka, at The Library at Ivywild School. 5-6:30 p.m.; $50 includes education and storytelling, cheese and charcuterie.
*Oct. 24: Sip with Schnip Winter Warlock release party at Bristol Brewing Co.
Parting shot(s)
Bristol Brewing Co. released its Benefit Beers Series on Oct. 7, with a celebration at their Ivywild School taproom. As I reported at this time last year, since 2007/2008 their Venetucci Pumpkin Ale, Cheyenne Cañon Piñon Nut Brown Ale and Smokebrush Smoked Porter have collectively raised around of $800,000 in donations to Venetucci Farm, Friends of Cheyenne Cañon and Smokebrush Foundation for the Arts.
I popped by to catch the opening toast and tapping of a modestly decorated, happy-faced pumpkin — through which Venetucci Pumpkin Ale flowed for the event. Owner/Brewer Mike Bristol gave a quick history of the nonprofit-benefitting beers. Last year, he’d said “It’s been in our DNA since we started. We were relying on the community to support our vision, and we feel like that needs to come back around.”
*Join us on Oct. 23 for a Rare Barrel Community Dinner, and/or Oct. 24 for a Sip with Schnip Winter Warlock release party at Bristol.
Awesome