The Mactory owners Alton and Maria Blue recently opened House of Birria in the longtime El Taco Rey spot at 330 E. Colorado Ave. (Which was most recently the Hawaiian eatery Roots Cafe, which closed in March of this year — meanwhile The Rey lives on in food truck form.)
As its name implies, House of Birria focuses on one thing, but in half a dozen forms. Choose between birria tacos, nachos, enchiladas or ramen, or get a birria burrito or quesadilla or rice bowl. Aside from some add-ons like beans, guacamole or extra consommé, and some canned N/A drinks, that’s it.
Simple, easily executable in a tiny space, and born out of birria popularity at The Mactory it turns out.
Alton tells me he started making birria at home a few years before opening The Mactory. He was inspired by a Netflix documentary series Taco Chronicles, plus some footwork he did while in Los Angeles for his work at the time. (He had a vintage clothing store inside The Citadel Mall for several years, next door to Maria’s longer-running hair and beauty boutique).
He studied YouTube videos and online birria recipes and began developing his own flavors: “I adapted my own process and tried it different ways, like at one point I had no cinnamon, then I started using bay leaves and Mexican oregano.” He tested batches, cooking for the family and friends, and would tweak his recipe based on the feedback. Whether he would alter his method again in the future or not, he says he still plans to venture to Mexico some day and try the item at its origin point.
Maria tells me the story of the day Alton came home with a signed lease for The Mactory’s space (at 125 N. Spruce St.) without talking to her about it.
“He said ‘we’re opening a restaurant,’ and slid it across the table. I was infuriated. We had three businesses at the time. I was overwhelmed. But now it’s my favorite,” she says.
“I had been toying around with the idea so it wasn’t completely foreign,” he says in his defense, “but yeah I just sprung it on her.”
Alton’s first industry job was as a dishwasher at the Radisson Hotel off Powers Boulevard. He then hopped to a series of places as a prep and line cook. He learned by doing, “paying attention and copying what I saw,” he says. So when it came to creating The Mactory’s menu, he applied what he’d learned, “tasting and figuring out different ways do different things.”
He quickly came to learn what was practical and not. One example he gives is moving to bacon away from pork belly that they’d been roasting and finishing on the griddle. “It was just too much of a process,” he says, getting real about the numbers. Though he’ll still run the pork belly as a special sometimes.
He describes The Mactory, where both of their kids (21 and 26) work and manage, as a “comfort QSR” spot (quick-service restaurant), and House of Birria as a “Mexican QSR” place.
The Mactory’s menu features 10 Signature Macs plus build-your-own options with customizable base and finishing sauces, proteins, veggies and toppings like Hot Cheetos or crispy onions. It would be fair to call the cuisine stoner food as much as comfort food, given the vibrant and texturally satisfying elements that hit the bliss points of fatty, salty, crunchy, etc.
The original menu featured birria tacos, ramen and quesadillas, but Alton has left only the birria mac in place there, now directing customers to House of Birria for its wider menu.
When I drop into The Mactory aiming for the birria mac, it’s already sold out for the day (as are all the desserts, I notice on a white board). So I decide to order the Angry Buffalo, made with a Pepper Jack “accent cheese” blended with the base Mozzarella that all the macs start with, “for the pull” (stretchiness) says Alton. Atop that pasta comes buffalo fried chicken bits with a crunchy crust and chewy core, nicely spicy with underlying tanginess; a ranch drizzle offers contrasting coolness and more richness. (I probably don’t have to describe this to you: you know ranch, you know buffalo sauce, just close your eyes and picture it.)
I rarely eat mac ’n cheese because I joke that it’s children’s food — most of us having grown up making our first meals as kids with noodles poured from slender boxes and powdery cheese packets torn open and mixed in with milk. But I recognize that there’s an adult market-demand for mac ’n cheese that’s sure to endure in perpetuity on American menus.
The Mactory makes a strong case for a well-made local version that’s elevated enough in its creativity. Cavatappi is the base noodle (though a gluten-free penne is available and perfectly proficient — I tried it just ’cuz) and other accent cheeses include white or sharp cheddar, havarti and gouda. The bougiest options are a ribeye steak mac and seafood options like a lobster mac or lobster mac with shrimp and salmon or shrimp and steak.
Back at House of Birria, where I first meet Maria and Alton, we happily work our way through birria tacos and a birria rice bowl.
I like that Alton’s adaptation does lean heavier on the spicing such as the cinnamon, reminding me of why I like Moctezuma’s version locally, too, among others. Sometimes versions with less prominent spicing smack too much like pot roast. His consommé sips bright and deeply laced by the flavoring elements. They use it to fortify the rice, which first cooks with tomato sauce then simmers again with the broth, taking on extra softness and becoming a bit broken and granular (not a bad thing) amidst the beans, birria and melted cheese with garnishing cilantro and sharp red onion.
I do something I don’t normally do when eating birria, which is add salsa to some bites, mainly because Maria provided a couple ramekins when she set our food down. Though unnecessary, because there’s so much flavor going on, it’s not unwelcome and adds an extra dimension of vegetal heat from the jalapeño, habanero and chile paste I’m told composes it. You should try it.
On a follow up phone call Alton tells me he’s toying around with introducing a chicken birria and goat birria to the menu, either full-time or limited to daily specials. He’s clearly not done tinkering, and sounds like he’d get bored if he didn’t.
I ask if he plans to expand more with either concept and he says yes, with both. Probably to North Colorado Springs first, then Denver and Pueblo over a five-year horizon.
Whether he’ll tell Maria about it first or just present signed leases to her casually over dinner some night, I’m not sure.
This month’s collaboration recipe with Ranch Foods Direct presents a departure from our usual Callicrate beef and pork highlights to focus on turkey, with an option to sub in duck instead. Both Ranch Foods Direct markets offer several protein options, including yak and bison, from ranching partners and community friends; so keep in mind for all your sustainably raised protein needs. And mention your Side Dish subscription for 5 percent off your whole shopping basket.
Weenies & ‘tinis continues and I have favorites so far
Hopefully you’ve already been out weenie-ing and ’tini-ing downtown with the free passport for the self-guided tour — which runs through Aug. 30.
I gave you an early teaser last week of The Brit Pub’s excellent English-style duck and foie gras brat with Sauternes-onion marmalade, pickled cherries, English mustard aioli and brandy-apple ketchup on a broiche bun.
In the days since, I’ve hit not all, but several more spots with my hotdog and cocktail adventure buddy Kelsee Swenn of Downtown Colorado Springs (a Side Dish sponsor for which I’m grateful).
Here are three pairings you shouldn’t miss:
1) Counterfeit Cowboy’s Brown Sugar Burnt Tip Dog with a Sweet Tea Martini. The barbecue is on-point if a bit sticky on the hands and the drink sips like a boozy Arnold Palmer, perfectly in balance between the tannic tea component, citrus sourness and accurate-to-the-South sugariness.
2) Rebel Rebel’s Elote Glizzy with lime aioli, roasted corn salad, cotija and a Flamin’ Hot Cheetos garnish, paired with a Corn & Cilantro Daisy: corn and honey whiskey with cilantro distillate, citrus and roasted corn syrup. Together they nail the street food tribute, with zesty and herbaceous notes.
3) Chiba Bar’s Wagyu Dog grilled over Binchotan (Japanese white charcoal) with wagyu butter, yuzu kosho (citrus-chile) aioli, crispy onions and beni shoga (plum- and shiso- pickled ginger) with black sesame and nori garnish. Wow, someone is looking to defend their title as Weenies & ’tinis champion! (Yeah, they won the popular vote last year by the numbers.) The dog’s paired with a Noodle Bowl cocktail, which gracefully balances a rum base with coconut, pineapple, cucumber and lime components plus the secret weapon of sesame. It’s challenging at first with that savory sesame influence, but quickly moves through a tropical tour that faintly evokes a piña colada then surprises with a refreshing cucumber and citrus wind-down. Very fun.
Bites & Bits
• Rocky Bowl Bistro has reopened dining room service with a temporary wall following an incident earlier in the week when a car destroyed its front window. According to a posting on their Facebook page: “… a 17-year-old tried to break into the smoke and vape shop next to Rocky Bowl Bistro. He ripped out the camera, tore at the door, and fired two .380 rounds into it. When that didn’t work, he rammed the side of the restaurant with a stolen vehicle, smashing through the glass.” (Watch the video here.) Needless to say, the restaurant could use some love from the community to recover from the damages; so consider a stop-by or to-go order soon. It’s located at 6821 Space Village Ave., just outside Peterson Space Force Base.
• Columbine Pour House plans to finally host its grand opening celebration on Aug. 28 from noon to 8 p.m. When I’d initially interviewed owners Shannon and Bobby Jackson back in early March they said they’d hoped to be open that same month. When I ask Shannon what happened with the long delay, she says: “It’s been a much longer process than we ever expected, mainly because the permitting and licensing process took longer than anticipated, along with a few other unexpected delays along the way. We’ve just kept working through each step and making sure everything was done right, and we’re really excited that we can finally open our doors and share Columbine Pour House with the community.” The eatery and bar is located inside the Green Mountain Falls Lodge, 10755 Ute Pass Ave. Regular hours will be noon to 8 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays and noon to 7 p.m. Sundays.
• My friends Carrie Simison and Laura Eurich wrote about How to Do Girl Dinner in Colorado Springs for Springs Magazine. (Their tips are much more appetizing than the viral online trend of “boy kibble.”)
Side Dish Dozen happenings
Red Gravy: Stop in for our contribution to Downtown Colorado Springs’ Weenies & ‘tinis promo. We’re doing a spin on classics: An Italian Sausage Dog with caramelized onions and roasted red peppers. Pair it with our Filthy Dirty Martini made with vodka, olive juice and balsamic with gorgonzola-stuffed olive garnish.
Blackhat Distillery: Come sample and sip in our tasting room, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Tuesdays-Saturdays. Our Duelers agave spirit lineup features a Blanco, Dark, Double Oaked and barrel-strength Midnight label, all carefully refined by our head distiller Kyle Bonasso.
Bristol Brewing Company: On Aug. 22 come stroll the grounds of Ivywild School with a beer in your hand as you admire a host of iconic VW buses at our annual Buses at the Brewery event, starting at 11 a.m. We’ll have Red Baron Octoberfest on draft, footlong brats from Spark BBQ, a tie-dye station, strong stein contest and live music. Return Sept. 25 from 6-10 p.m. for a family-friendly, first-ever-for-Bristol Oktoberfest.
Elephant Thai: Check out our new location in Monument with exclusive menu items, including tamarind duck and vegetable, Salmon Choo Chee in red coconut curry and Thai-style beef short ribs. We serve dedicated gluten-free and vegan menus.
Four by Brother Luck: We’ve just dropped our latest seasonal menu. Stop in for your own customizable four-course tasting or à la carte dining. Enjoy dishes like elk carpaccio, lamb barbacoa, flat iron carne asada and relish our gorgeous dessert menu.
bird tree cafe: Happy hours, 3-6 p.m. daily. Check out our latest theme menu inspired by Adventure Time. The Oh My Glob frozen latte features frozen banana, oat milk and espresso with an ube-butterscotch drizzle. And BMO’s Game Matcha gets pistachio, white chocolate, blue raspberry marshmallow fluff and a gummy frog garnish.
Hoppenings of the week
Beer Events
20th Anniversary Buses at the Brewery at Bristol Brewing. Noon, Aug. 22. Strong stein competition, tie-die station, live music and more.
9th Annual Save the Peaks Pink Beer Brew Day at Peaks N Pines Brewery (Fountain). 8 a.m., Aug. 22. All are welcome to participate in the brew, which results in an October release that benefits the Memorial Hospital Foundation.
Pickleball Club at Mash Mechanix. 5:30 p.m., Aug. 25. A recurring social event on Tuesdays. All skill levels welcome.
Beer Releases
SPF O Stout at Peaks N Pines Brewing. Tropical Stout with Pineapple & Citrus.
Shadowline Lager at WestFax Springs. Smooth, malt-forward dark lager with notes of toasted bread, light cocoa, and caramel.
Union Maid Märzen Oktoberfest. A crisp, malty and smooth lager.
For full listings of events and releases download the free Hoppenings app on Apple on Google.
Upcoming events
Aug. 21-23: Colorado Springs Greek Festival at Archangel Michael Greek Orthodox Church.
Aug. 21-22: 2nd Annual Polaris Pour - Bourbon at the Gate at Hotel Polaris. Bourbon and cocktail seminars, culinary pairings, grand tasting and much more.
Aug. 23: 4th annual 719 Battle of the Food Trucks at Norris Penrose Event Center. Samples from 45 area trucks. 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Beer Garden, live music and more.
Aug. 27: Tails, Tunes & Tastes at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. 6-9:30 p.m. $64.75 tickets include two drinks and unlimited food samples. (Event repeats Sept. 24.)
Aug. 30: Goat Patch Sip with Schnip in Monument for John Denver Day. Noon to 9 p.m. Food trucks, maker market, kids activities and live music from 2-5 p.m. (David Chapa) and 6-9 p.m. (Cowboy Brad and the Tropicowboys playing John Denver favorites). Special Schnip’s Garden infused peach kettle sour firkin release at 4 p.m.
Sept. 12: Castle Rock Beer Fest Under the Stars. 4-9 p.m. Sip from more than 20 breweries, distilleries and wineries and enjoy food truck fare next to live music.
Sept. 12: Revel Art Party and dinner in AdAmAn Alley. 5 p.m.; six courses, $200.
Sept. 13: Fiestas Patrias in downtown. Featuring food vendors and much more, celebrating Hispanic Heritage Month.
Sept. 14: Purple Hands Wine Meet the Maker dinner in The Penrose Room at The Broadmoor. 6 p.m., $258.
Sept. 18: Downtown Partnership Annual Breakfast. 7:15-9 a.m. at CC’s Ed Robson Arena.
Sept. 20: Paella on the Patio at TAPAteria. Three seatings; $55 includes a drink. (Next up: Oct. 18.)
Sept. 24: Oktoberfest at Edelweiss. 5-8:30 p.m. $35 includes entry, a beer ticket, games and live music and raffle entry, with food available for purchase. (Wear traditional German attire and get a commemorative beer mug. Event repeats Oct. 1.)
Parting shot(s)
Cocktails After Dusk hosted its 2-Year Anniversary Party and Industry Olympics on Aug. 17. Local bartenders competed in some amusing games that required related service skills and navigating a silly obstacle course. Bottles were dropped; glass was broken (and swept up); and ultimately the team from Choice Restaurant Concepts (T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila, District Elleven and bird tree cafe) won.
