Unusual formats
Nouveau Dining's novel pop up model; Frontline Social Club serves first responders; Urban Animal takes over Red Swing; tap&table exit interviews an OG Beer Ranger + more food & drink news
Chefs Stephen Waun (29) and Chad Henry (31) became friends in the industry in recent years while working together at Burnt Toast. The way Stephen (who goes by “Steff”) tells it, “we clicked immediately, operated similarly in the kitchen, had a similar work ethic and style, and bonded over talking about Asian foods. At some point we got to talking about doing pop-up dinners.”
Flash forward to today and Waun is working at Wobbly Olive with Chad’s older brother, Chef Mark Henry, while Chad continues to moonlight at Inefable after working his morning Burnt Toast shifts. But the two are finally making progress on launching a thing of their own: Nouveau Dining.
As a pretty novel format, Nouveau plans to be essentially a ghost kitchen, based out of a commissary, but serving dinners in a studio apartment in the downtown area. They’re renting it (via a landlord already familiar to Chad) to be set up specifically as a dining space for ticketed parties of 12 to attend multi-course fine dining meals. (So as all the legality goes, think of it as something like catering or private chef functions.) They’re also envisioning possible collaboration dinners with other guest chefs to expand Nouveau’s programming.
“It’s like how Ephemera started,” says Waun, who notes staging under Ian Dedrickson and Nora Dillon in their kitchen. He points to the success of Ephemera now as evidence that pop-up concepts can lead to brick and mortar, which is where he and Henry aim to go someday. The chefs, conscious of this atypical approach, also point out that it’s not far off from booking a kiosk at a food hall or investing in a food truck as similar means for incubation space.
“Before we go into debt on something unproven, we want to slowly work our way into it,” says Chad, noting they’ll launch with just two monthly dinners due to their full-time-plus schedules. “We’ll keep control of it as we develop so that we aren’t growing too fast, too soon, before we’re ready.”
They aim to host their first dinner sometime in mid to late June — keep an eye on their social pages for updates — and have already released the teaser menu, which they’ve been R&D-ing together whenever they’ve had time to meet out outside of work. They’re calling their cuisine Asian-French fusion. The initial dinner (11 total items between five courses, counting the amuse bouche, intermezzos and a four-component first course) features items like squid ink dumplings, a kimchi-okonomiyaki crepe, pork belly fried rice, and stuffed squid with a kimchi buerre blanc.
Because of past conversations I’ve had with Chad’s brother Mark about flak he caught for starting a ramen shop (Rooster’s House of Ramen, where downtown Wobbly Olive is today) as a white dude who hadn’t done extensive study in Japan or anything — which, let’s cut him slack, is somewhat ridiculous given everyone’s working on the shoulders of past chefs with cuisines owing their roots to far away places, so culinary appropriation is a norm — I ask Waun and Chad about their feels on the matter.
“I would say the ‘fusion’ aspect of our food makes it safer,” says Waun. “It would be different perhaps if we were advertising it as traditional and authentic. If you do it respectfully, acknowledging your a student of it, I think it’s appropriate.”
Chad, almost channeling his brother’s gruff bluntness, is more the to point about it: “Good food is good food.” Touché.
But if they had to sling some cred, Chad could site his initial experience cooking Asian food at Rooster’s, where he developed a passion for it. He says he’s glad to have branched off since, including learning Hispanic fine dining with Chef Fernando Trancoso at Inefable. But he says he’s missed Asian food and is excited to delve back into it. And Waun, for his part, was stationed in South Korean with the Army. He was thrilled to get off base and go on culinary explorations to discover “vibrant culture and food — all these things I hadn’t experienced before that lit up my palate.”
As an aside to Nouveau, Waun also details plans for a side brand called Feral Chef, a nod to back-of-the-house culture. It will be a custom kitchen apparel line with more functional chef jackets than the typical stiff, boxy, white coats worn ubiquitously. He’s working with a local clothing designer to create patterns and add aspects such as stretch-fit components. “I got tired of buying stuff I didn’t end up liking,” he says. “I want something comfortable that moves well. So I thought why not start a company to make what I would like to wear?” The chefs plan to debut some sample jackets at their first dinner in hopes their fellow industry members will support the venture as it gets off the ground, ideally in full swing by year’s end, they say.
Service bar
This past weekend, Frontline Social Club grand opened at 3255 Cinema Point at First & Main Town Center, in the former Bar Louie spot, vacant since 2019’s end.
“We’re a restaurant, bar, coffee shop and community space for first responders,” says co-owner Lyndzi Barnes. Her husband and co-owner Doug is a police officer on the Colorado Springs force. And the goal, she says, is to eventually be open 24-7 for all shift workers. Out of the gate, they’re serving from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m., Mondays-Tuesdays and until 2 a.m. Wednesdays-Sundays.
FLSC will operate on a membership model, but during June it’s fully open to the wider community to check out. Barnes says as they gain members, they’ll eventually restrict hours to members only, but still offer regular public hours at select times for everyone else, including those who wish to consciously support first responders. She notes their demographic research in the wider Springs metro area showed around 7,800 first responders (potential members) between police and corrections officers, firefighters, paramedics, nurses and doctors, coroners, dispatchers, search-and-rescue people and emergency utilities workers.
Barnes says she and Doug are new to the food and beverage industry, but conceived this business as a retirement plan for him, opting to launch it many years before he actually plans to do so. The full venue, including two patios and event spaces (available for rental), spans 9,300 square-feet. FLSC serves breakfast, lunch and dinner items, with the full menu available all day. Consulting Chef Supansa Banker helped FLSC launch, writing the initial menu, organizing the kitchen, establishing vendors, etc. Upon opening, she has handed the reigns over to chef Nick Johnston, who’s coming to FLSC from Pizzeria Rustica.
“We wanted to serve a good variety of everything,” she says, “to attract multiple types of people.” Menu items include starters like potstickers and steamed mussels, flatbreads, soups and salads, sandwiches like a Reuben and brisket-bacon cheeseburger, entrées like a bulgogi bowl, plus a handful each of breakfast and dessert items ranging from French toast to gelato. There’s also gluten-free and vegan options.
On the drink side of things, the Barneses mindfully curated brands that have some connection to first responders, be that direct (like owners who formerly served) or indirect (businesses that have been outwardly supportive). They’re serving coffee drinks made with First Responder’s Coffee Company-roasted beans (out of Florida). Cocktails have been created by one of their distributors and given theme-appropriate names like the Substation, which is a classic Old Fashioned. There’s also 35 wines, NA drinks, ciders and 20 beer taps that include locals like Peaks N Pines, Brass Brewing and Nano 108 plus brands from Denver and beyond.
Look for live music every Sunday from 2-4 p.m. and Wednesday evenings in the coffee shop. And you can enjoy Frontline’s patio for First & Main Town Center free concerts on Fridays. The bar also has all the sports channels. “We’re looking to support our first responders in any way we can,” reiterates Barnes. “This is our small way we feel we can give back.”
Ranch Foods Direct’s Mike Callicrate in the news again
Ranch Foods Direct founder Mike Callicrate was recently featured as a return guest on Trinity Vandenacre’s Life in the West podcast. (He appeared earlier this year in this segment.) Vandenacre visited Callicrate in Colorado Springs for a new segment titled “How LOCALS Win Against the SUPER Rich - Wealth Creation.” Callicrate speaks out against corporate concentration of power and predatory practices that hurt small, local businesses. The two take a stroll along Fillmore Street to talk about the row of chain restaurants along it and Callicrate’s feelings that our city makes it easy for corporate entities to locate here while making it more difficult for independents. “The community is better with many small businesses than it is with lots of chains and big-box stores,” says Callicrate, who’s lead sponsor of this newsletter.
A poignant exit interview with an OG Beer Ranger
Our latest tap&table episode just dropped today, and if you’ve been following our local beer scene over the last couple decades you’ve probably met former New Belgian Beer Ranger Travis Flett at some point. He’s locally beloved and also worked in more recent years for Goat Patch and Pikes Peak breweries. Travis was responsible for a lot of behind-the-scenes work to help brands reach new outlets — ranging from liquor store coolers to tap handles in restaurants and bars. This chat is a bit of inside baseball, but pretty damn interesting if you appreciate beer and aspects of what it takes to operate a successful business. Travis recently moved out of state, so Ryan and I sat down with him by way of an exit interview to give him a fond farewell. Tune in.
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Urban Animal takes over in the former Red Swing spot
Last week, I covered a sudden spate of closures around town, which included Red Swing Brewhouse. I couldn’t announce its replacement as I went to hit the publish button, because the paperwork wasn’t quite wrapped up. But hours after I went to print, Urban Animal Beer Co. announced that it will take over the space soon.
I’d spoken prior with Urban Animal’s co-owner Mandy Bradigan (also a managing partner at Colorado Craft with her husband Bryan; he’s a partner at the brewery as well). She told me the goal is to get open within two months, which has more to do with licensing and more paperwork than construction/renovation needs. This expansion already is impressive considering the original location at 3629 Star Ranch Road only turns 2 years old in September.
Bradigan says they’ll keep the same brew system going and continue to make all styles of beers between the two locations. Brewer Mike Centanne is bringing on Jordan Oswald, currently a co-owner and brewer at Batch Slapped — who I also announced last week will be shutting down as of July 13. “We’re excited to expand our brand downtown — we’re looking forward to it,” Bradigan says.
Good Neighbors updates menus
Good Neighbors Meeting House — sister business to Wild Goose Meeting House, co-owned by Mayor Yemi Mobolade — recently released updated menus that include new cocktail selections, a first-of-its-kind-for-the-cafe lunch menu, a kid’s menu and new HH offerings. (Hours are now 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, with the HH’s from 3-5 daily).
Current GM and consultant Montana Horsfall, a well-regarded bartender/mixologist in town, invited me in for some samplings to get a peek at the changes. She says the lunch menu addition was by customer demand, and that it’s available all day, as is the breakfast menu. Items include a couple wraps, a tuna melt, a couple of loaded salads, and avocado toast (for only $8.75 compared to the many others for dollars more around town). The “Little Neighbors” options include a kids’ grilled cheese and chips, easy for carting over to the neighboring playground. There’s also gluten-free and vegan options.
Horsfall’s new cocktail creations ($10 anytime, $8 on HH) include a prickly pear margarita, Neighbors Mule (with house ginger syrup), Good Ol’ Fashioned and our favorite, the Espress yo’ Self: that’s a Carajillo-evoking espresso cocktail (regular or decaf, pulled fresh) with vodka, coffee liqueur and Fruitful clementine liqueur. Without being cloying, it reminds us of a Terry’s Chocolate Orange.
She’s added a canned wine lineup that helps inform a rosé (or frosé) cocktail named the Frozen in Thyme. It includes that herb with berry-hibiscus simple syrup. Four beer/cider taps rotate between local brands like FH, Goat Patch and Pikes Peak breweries. There’s also CoS’bucha and other NA options.
Bites and Bits
• Dueces Wild Brewery (yes, it’s spelled that way) has temporarily closed its Peterson location and asked patrons to please support it over at its Templeton Gap store. They wrote on their social media that a fire a couple doors down “has caused a mess.”
• That same fire has forced Grinder Sandwich Co. to close its doors, except they don’t currently have a backup location from which to do business. Co-owner Michael Greenberg has started a GoFundMe and says they’re in the process of opening a new location. He’s asking community support of $10,000 to get going. “We hate to ask for help, but we are not sure what else to do… My employees are also temporarily out of work. We would appreciate any help you can offer,” he writes.
• Cheers to Poor Richard’s for their constant community involvement to improve C. Springs. Did you know they do a Richard’s Rubbish Roundup every Tuesday from 4-6 p.m. After each community trash cleanup, they serve volunteers free pizza and glass of wine or beer (or soda/tea) at Rico’s Cafe.
• Porkbutt BBQ, formerly a mobile business launched in early 2023, will open in its first brick-and-mortar location at 2220 Academy Place (near Maizeland Road) on June 1. The outfit is dedicated gluten-free and serves everything from Memphis-style ribs to Texas-style brisket and a bourbon banana pudding for dessert.
• On May 31, you’ll find some $3.40 and $34 specials around town. Ephemera’s offering a $34 dozen oyster and bottle of rosé special from 5-10 p.m. (“Nothing is more political than food,” owner Ian Dedrickson had said on my State of Plate podcast a couple years ago.) Munchies719 will sell $3.40 draft pints all day. Eleven18 says street tacos are $3.40 for the day. Elephant Thai has bundled Pad Thai, yellow curry and a crab rangoon for $34, while sister outfit Chaang Thai will sell a Chaang Thai special noodle and Pad Gra Plow (stir fry with Thai basil) and crab rangoon at that price too. All that’s in response to a question I posed on Facebook, asking if anyone was planning anything cheeky in response to yesterday’s big news. It may have, um, inspired some of the deals. 😬
• Pub Dog Colorado is seeking votes to become the top spot in USA Today’s 10Best Dog Bars in America. Voting runs through June 23.
Things eaten and drank recently
• I stopped by The Chuckwagon 719’s grand opening at 6453 Omaha Blvd. on May 17 and found the former food cart’s usual long line of supporters waiting to get inside. Chuckwagon proves that true-Texas barbecue doesn’t just come with the ‘cue, but a queue. If you still haven’t read my review from last July, do so, then get over there.
• I’ve been highly anticipating getting over to Mausam Indian restaurant since I broke the news in late March of a Michelin-awarded chef’s arrival in town. Before I made it there last week, Warren Epstein’s review in Springs Mag published and he colorfully detailed much of what he had already private messaged me in between his half-dozen visits. I ran into him at a party and jotted down a must-try-first list. I checked a few of those items off with some friends visiting from out of town. I was too distracted to work that day, and felt like I wanted to give Mausam a little more time before my own review (because another friend mentioned some rough FOH service with a very long wait time for food after she ordered). But I at least got a little teaser and agree with Epstein’s somewhat summary statement, that he “found the food kicked up several notches from most other Indian restaurants. The curries just taste deeper, more complex.” Indeed it’s difficult to quantify and put words to, but the food definitely stands out as a cut above. I look forward to returning for more sometime soon.
• Last fall I gave a shoutout to one of barista/DJ Joe Slivik’s seasonal coffee creations at The Well’s Gift Horse Cafe Bar & Cafe. It was a pretty sensational espresso with strawberry-rhubarb syrup and cold foam, served with a slice of the fruit and a piece of fine dark chocolate. While I was in this week to report on Formosa Bites’ closure (remember to get it while you can, before June 16), I tried two other current seasonal drinks from Slivik and his staff, both iced: the Sage Advice with ceremonial-grade matcha, house sage syrup, oat milk, raspberry cold foam and a lemon expression. And the Spring, Sprang, Sprung, with lavender and jasmine tea concentrates, mint simple syrup, espresso, cold foam, a lemon expression and mint garnish. They’re both phenomenal and you need to go try them. In chatting with Slivik about the special seasonal creations, he tells me he feels they need to be highly creative and unique. “How can I make people feel like they get their money’s worth for $6 in the age of Dutch Bros. and Starbucks,” he posits.
• I finally made it by Eleven18’s Not Your Basic Brunch, a collaboration between chefs Beto Reyes and Brother Luck. It’s running weekends from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and I’ll say from our limited sampling it lives up to its name. Instead of common chicken and waffles the menu offers duck carnitas over a sweet potato waffle with chile-apple compote, an egg, poblano ricotta and pickled red onion. It’s dope. We also opt for the Not Basic Avocado Toast, actually on flatbread, topped with crab meat, avo spread, roasted cherry tomatoes, salsa matcha and poblano cheese. Pretty unique. And if you’ve been reading this newsletter closely you’ll know I’ve been recently obsessed with Carajillos, which leads me to order Eleven18’s espresso margarita, made with reposado tequila, espresso, homemade coffee liqueur, agave and Magdala (Spanish orange liqueur in place of typical Licor 43 in a true Carajillo). It’s outstanding.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• The French Kitchen: You have until Friday evening to pre-order your crepes for TFK’s big 7-year anniversary party, 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., June 1, featuring demos (like Cooking with Tequila + Classic Bananas Foster), free samples and a big retail sale.
• Allusion Speakeasy: The Friends theme will come down on June 8 at our Powers location and June 9 downtown. So come get your last of the creative cocktail menus featuring drinks like the Sticky Shoes, Ex-Boyfriend Bonfire and Joey Special. Next theme: Mario Bros.
• Odyssey Gastropub: Catch Waffle Wednesdays! Chicken and Waffles available every Wednesday, all day long; $15. Current feature: Southern fried chicken, Belgian house waffle, bourbon maple syrup, blackberry marmalade and bacon crumbles.
• Edelweiss: Make reservations now for Father's Day. We’re offering our award-winning patio dining plus a prime rib special, limited dinner menu all day, and strolling musicians over the weekend.
• Kangaroo Coffee: We're celebrating Get Outdoors Day at Memorial Park with neighboring fun at our Hillside Coffee House. Outdoor activities and drink discounts, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Hop over before or after the day's festivities. Then we'll see you at the Switchbacks' game that evening! All week enjoy Featured Drinks including a Lilypad Matcha, Iced London Fog or an Orange Creamsicle Latte. Feeling like summer!
• District Elleven: $6 tapas, $6 red and white wine, $8 Old Fashioned cocktails, $5 wells, $4 beers during Happy Hour from 4-6 p.m. Tuesdays to Fridays.
• Red Gravy: Visit us in Blue at Red Gravy, our back bar, for Wine Wednesdays. Featuring free samples, half-priced bottles and our full dinner menu.
• Ascent Beverage: Head to The Carter Payne for their Old Fashioned made with Arcola Distillery Irish-style whiskey, pot stilled with a nice, smooth sweetness. Our favorite pairing: their gorgeous charcuterie board.
• Goat Patch Brewing: Helles Lager beer release 5 p.m., May 31. Bleating Heart Night, June 4, 5-9 p.m.; $1 from each pint sold benefits Riders 4 Children. Trivia, 6:30-8:30 p.m., June 5. Singo Music Bingo: Girl Power Volume 1, 6-8 p.m., June 6.
• Bristol Brewing Company: Music in the Yard live music series runs 6-8 p.m. every Friday in June and July, starting June 7 with the Fuzzheads. World Peace Death Ray Cold IPA Release Party, 6-8 p.m. May 31 with a group toast, food pairing, Guess-the-IPA game and new merch.
• Blue Star Group: This weekend's weather forecast is perfect for cocktails on the patio. Visit the Principal’s Office to try one of the drinks on their new Summer Shenanigans Menu. And it's now even easier to find delicious pies, sweets and treats to complete your meal at Ivywild. Gold Star Bakery is now located in the main hallway. Life is short, make it sweet!
• The Carter Payne: You know The Carter Payne for their exceptional food and brilliant beverages, but did you know they host private functions as well? From weddings and social events to corporate retreats and non-profit fundraisers, and everything in between. Chat up the team next time you're in, or pop over to their website to submit an inquiry.
• Four by Brother Luck: Shrimp & Grits class, 7 p.m., June 7 at The Studio; $75. Grab a drink this week at Tipperary Cocktail Parlor, home of local award-winning bartenders. Catch the Not Basic Brunch at Eleven18, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekends.
• Rasta Pasta: The Rasta Pasta patio is a great spot to enjoy the summer weather, downtown people watching and your favorite draft or frozen rum creation. We have partial shade, pretty flowers and full service on the patio.
Upcoming events
• June 2: 2nd annual 719 Battle of the Food Trucks at the Meanwhile Block. 11:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. $39.99 to $59.99 for 11 sampling tickets from dozens of food trucks. (I’ll be co-judging.)
• June 2: Platte Ave Block Party June Market. 1-5 p.m. Food isn’t the focus, but it’s part of the 50-vendor party between The Black Sheep, Vultures and What’s Left Records. (Plus all these businesses are cool AF.)
• June 4: Food Truck Tuesday kicks off at the Pioneers Museum. 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
• June 6: ICONS Takeover at The Well: a special fundraising event to help ICONS reopen. 6-9 p.m.; $15. Live performances, pride-themed special drinks, food from the house vendors.
• June 7: Roll Bike Art Festival at Buffalo Lodge Bicycle Resort. Again, food’s not the focus but there will be food trucks as part of the arty party.
• June 8: 12th annual Feast of St. Arnold family-friendly beer festival on the grounds of the Chapel of our Saviour Episcopal Church. Benefits Westside Cares. Noon to 4:30 p.m.; $50-$90.
• June 8: Pikes Peak Brewing Anniversary Party. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Live music, food trucks and of course, house beers a plenty.
• June 8-9: Pikes Peak Pride Festival & Parade in Alamo Square Park downtown. 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. Food trucks and a beer garden will be part of the colorful festivities.
• June 9: Ancestry Wine Dinner at Inefable. 5-9 p.m.; $130. Featuring wines from Portugal and Mexico that celebrate Chef Fernando's heritage.
• June 15: Sip with Schnip at The French Kitchen. 1-3 p.m. Free cooking demos and samples. Feature a one-day-only Side Dish menu special (25% off regular retail prices) consisting of a French hotdog, Bebolo signature sparking water drink and a dessert item. TFK’s French hotdog is: a baguette, melted Brie, caramelized onions and Dijon-garlic aioli atop a smoked Polish sausage. (Vegan/veg substitutions available.)
• June 27: [Early notice] Moonlight on the Mountain at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. 6-10 p.m.; $79.75-$119.75. Includes all-inclusive food and drink samplings, live music, SkyRides ($5 extra) and of course, giraffe feeding. (21 and-up.)
Parting shot
This is my Austrian Copper rose bush, currently in full bloom. It’s a stunning varietal that produces both red and yellow flowers on alternating years. I read something online that says some people find the scent of the yellow flowers “objectionable.” For my part, I smell little to no difference in mine, and wish not to object in any way. They’re certainly less potent than celebrated fragrant roses, but still pleasant. And certainly very pretty.
Great writing- so descriptive.