Today's teachers, tomorrow's chefs
Shovel Ready's Culinary Capstone workforce program off to early success + more food & drink news
Shovel Ready just released its new summer seasonal menu. Which offered the perfect opportunity for me to catch up with the folks behind the ambitious culinary program that underpins this public-facing vendor kiosk inside The Well food hall. Methinks not everyone in town is yet up to speed on all that’s happening behind the scenes.
I first called Executive Chef and Lead Mentor Ben Hoffer for some background. I’ve been interviewing Hoffer on and off over the past decade-plus, dating back to when he was the wunderkind leading the Craftwood Inn. Now 44, he’s been in the industry 25 years already — longer if you count the time he was working as a kid for his dad at Patsy’s Candies, he says. He went on to work for Altitude Hospitality for eight years, having a role in opening The Pinery, Sprig, Till and Cafe 36 at the FAC during that time. Most recently, out on his own, he operated High Rise Pizza Kitchen.
In his role at Shovel Ready Hoffer develops recipes, handles all the costing and vendor relationships for menus, implements the apprenticeship curriculum and works closely alongside students during their eight-week training. He’s supported by other talented chefs who’ve come out of roles in local kitchens to help train the next generation: Kate Doncilovic, sous chef and assistant lead mentor; and Sami Posey, junior sous chef and assistant mentor.
Shovel Ready’s an extension of The Community Cultural Collective at the City Auditorium, who was a generous sponsor of my State of Plate podcast. With support from the Pikes Peak Workforce Center — who funded a Social Return on Investment study on the Culinary Colorado Springs Facebook group that I co-founded during the pandemic — CCC has obtained grant funding to pay for its Advanced Hospitality and Culinary Apprenticeship program. Meaning not only are the teachers paid, but 10 apprenticeship slots every eight weeks pay students $17.50/hr. (the averaged total of base compensation plus a completion bonus) to glean industry skills. At graduation, they receive a locally-made chef’s knife from Waters Forge plus assistance with job placement inside the independent restaurant community and monetary support towards continuing certifications such as ServSafe food handling and managing.
CCC Workforce Navigator Madison Ward, my second call, tells me the culinary program has been “remarkably successful” thus far, and shares success stories to prove it. They’re now midway through their fourth cohort, and experienced over a 90-percent placement rate from the first three cohorts. Each class has experienced some anticipated attrition, as the experience has helped some students realize this isn’t the career path they wish to continue. (There’s value in learning that early, too.) “We’re seeking out folks with barriers in their lives,” she says. “So we know we’ll lose one or two due to hardships.” The prior cohorts began with seven students for six-week trainings, but CCC adapted it based on feedback and extended it by two weeks. “We recognized the need for more training to ensure a higher success rate,” she says.
As of yet, all 10 of the current cohort have stuck around. Ward says the next class will consist almost entirely of recent high school graduates who got a taste of the culinary industry via ProStart programs at their schools. As for those success stories, Ward sends me a lengthy list of names and placements around town. I’m paraphrasing, but here’s an inspiring snapshot:
Shawn has gone to The Carter Payne; Nadia to Birdtree Cafe; Haley to IV by Brother Luck (who’s a CCC culinary advisor); Nolan to Pizzeria Rustica (Chef/Owner Jay Gust is also a CCC culinary advisor); Nicholas and Cruz both went to The Rabbit Hole; Joey has been placed at Bonny & Read; Addison at The Flying Horse Steak House; Quentin at Shuga’s; Joseph at Red Gravy; Jonathan at The Garden; Helga at Black Forest Bistro; and Isabella stuck around The Well to work at Tossed, as did Tayler to take a spot at Formosa Bites. Nova is heading next to Escoffier Culinary School and Elyssa is becoming a freelance baker, while Michelle plans to open her own restaurant.
Can I get a collective “wow”? Wow!
Okay, so what does that look like for your next meal when you drop by Shovel Ready to show your support, simply by dining there? Well, I stopped in yesterday to buy a couple plates and sample myself. I can confidently say this doesn’t smack of student food. And I can say this after having judged countless finals over the years at culinary schools and other events. The trainers/mentors are always on-hand for quality control, so nothing’s a giveaway that apprentices are making the meals. It’s seamless.
Hoffer says his credo is “we cook the food we love.” He believes that attracts others who’ll love it, and he loves herbs and different flavor profiles, plus seasonality. “A lot of consideration must go into the menu, because first and foremost it’s about training points and hitting a lot of fundamental cooking techniques,” he says.
He also sets a model of supporting local producers — a huge tenet for sustainability in an industry dogged by tight profit margins, meaning many kitchens buy what’s cheapest, not what’s best for the planet and people. I could go on about that, but just listen to Ep. 5 of State of Plate, “Food Fight” for a thorough rundown. Anyway, he’s buying now from Frost Livestock, The Sourdough Boulangerie, Ranch Foods Direct (a sponsor of this newsletter) and others such as Microvora.
Shovel Ready’s current summer menu should run through August, so you have ample time to check it out. I ordered the Mojo Grain Bowl for my entrée and Matcha Strawberry Shortcake for dessert, with a side of Chef Doncilovic’s homemade ice cream; a lemon-strawberry swirl. Chef Posey talked me into the combo, doing a masterful front-of-house upsell at the register — and I say this as someone who used to proudly upsell the hell out of desserts back in my day as a server.
Anyway, I loved the bright acidity that punctuated the grain bowl, coming from multiple dimensions: the pico, pickled veg and mildly spicy crema. The pork was tender, juicy and welcoming to all the herbal accents and vegetal notes. It’s a nice clean summer dish, overall light on the palate and belly, but plenty big with flavor. Dessert was totally lavish, and I usually reserve that word for chocolate items because I’m a chocoholic, and not normally a cake guy either. The shortcake crumb is delicate and spongy and the strawberries are fresh and true, but the matcha whip cream’s the star, pleasantly green tea-bitter and astringent, countering the underlying sweetness. That is until I begin taking bites with that kick-ass lemon-strawberry ice cream, which moves the mark back over to happy sugar town. Damn, Doncilovic has her recipes dialed in. This one’s beautifully tart and faintly zingy but not in a bite-the-tongue sorbet way; it’s still creamy and rich, and complements the shortcake well.
Michelin matters
The prestigious Michelin Guide announced earlier this week that “The Centennial State is getting way more tasty,” hence in 2023 it will begin covering Colorado’s culinary scene.
Can I get an “about damn time”? About damn time!
However, don’t get too excited Colorado Springs. We aren’t on the list of cities to be featured. Instead, “it will cover Aspen and Snowmass Village, Boulder, Denver, the town of Vail, and Beaver Creek Resort,” according to this posting.
All of which gets back to my premise behind State of Plate, asking the central question of what’s needed for C. Springs to become a real (respected) food city? I mean, if we’re honest, at least the Broadmoor, holding Five Stars and Five Diamonds, would be a strong contender.
Who else would ya’ll suggest championing, that’s worthy right now? Sound off in the comments below:
Sip with Schnip third Thursday happy hour at The Carter Payne takes place June 15 from 5-7 p.m. In support of Side Dish, the venue is offering the first beer, featured wine or cocktail free to any of my paid subscribers. ($7-$10 value; tip accordingly.) Free subscribers can get $2 off their first beverage. Come have a drink with me and toast the continuation of my food and drink journalism career in its exciting new phase.
Spiedie overhaul
My free subscribers may now read in-full my mid May review of Kelley’s Spiedies. In the review, I talk with owner and Chef Mark Henry about his rapid rebranding of Rooster’s Ramen to create Kelley’s. And the uphill battle he’s since faced in educating consumers about his hometown of Binghamton, NY’s beloved sandwich, the spiedie.
You have two weeks left to check out my Schnip’s Pick cut of the month at Ranch Foods Direct. Click here to find the Gather Food Studio-created recipe and full details of this special collaboration between Side Dish, Gather and RFD. Visit RFD’s retail markets to pick up your Callicrate Beef tri-tip and fresh-made Gather spice packet. RFD owner Mike Callicrate was absolutely right when he told me that tri-tip “grills as good as any steak” and “eats above its place in the animal.” The spice blend “features flavors of mustard and garlic, with a finish of herbs and a touch of cinnamon and citrus,” says Gather’s Cortney Smith, adding “it’s made to stand up to a long smoke or high heat on the grill.” Lastly: Remember that my paid Side Dish subscribers can claim a *one-time* free pound of 80/20 ground beef at RFD, and paid and free subscribers can get 5 percent off their total market purchase. Show your Schniper sticker or proof of being a Side Disher on your phone, and tell ‘em Schniper sent ya.
Happenings
• The second annual SoCo Still Fest takes place from 2-5 p.m., Saturday, June 24 at Blackhat Distillery. It’s being put on by Blackhat and The Colorado Spirits Collective. It features tastings from spirits based not only in Colorado, but also Wyoming and New Mexico. Event organizers bill it as “the largest craft spirits festival in Southern Colorado.” GA tickets are $45 and VIP tickets are $75 (which includes early access at 1 p.m. plus a swag bag).
• Folklore will celebrate Juneteenth from 5-9 p.m., Monday, June 19 with half-off cocktails and appetizers and $5 draft beers plus music from DJ Shield. On his Facebook page, co-owner and Chef Brother Luck posted: “It’s been a crazy experience getting this place transitioned from Lucky Dumpling but it’s done and beautiful. I broke my foot when we first started construction and can now finally get back into the business.”
• COSCITYHUB (home to recently launched Buff Brew Coffee) is hosting a Grub at The Hub food truck rally from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Thursdays. I checked out the venue (on Austin Bluffs Parkway) for my first time last week when I attended the Mayor’s Inaugural Gala (hence a couple of my photos below.) This is a total digression and side note — perhaps even a caution to food truck drivers heading in — but I haven’t seen a parking lot in this poor of repair in a very long time. It’s developing-world bad, with huge pot holes, loose patches of large gravel, cracks, bumps and chasms. (Ok, maybe not chasms, but you get the point. Ladies side-stepping their way into the Mayor’s Gala in high heels were brave AF.) Tenants, I give a Side Dish Schnip nod of approval toward approaching the property owner(s) with a repair request. (Sub-digression to digression: Yep, I guess I review parking lots, too, now, not just eateries. Send me your best spots, subscribers! Haha!)
Parting shot(s)
I’ve been a little social lately, both in promoting Side Dish in the community as well as scrounging for semblance of a personal life. (I’m not quite there yet — much to do in these early months!) Here’s some recent haps:
Informative , lively and interesting writing. Tells good stories that need the exposure..
So this review had me head over tonight. Incredible..The crudites was to die for.