Polish pride
European Café relocates to former Dale St. Bistro spot downtown; I take a matcha 101 class with a local tea influencer; Stellina launches cicchetti hour; Firebrand opens at Tava House + more food news
When the European Café & Restaurant announced back in late March that their building in Old Colorado City was sold, and that they were seeking a new home by May 15, some local eaters wondered if that would be the end of things for the businesses that launched back in 1996.
But those are probably the people who don’t know the fortitude of the cafe’s owner, Bozena Jakubczyk. Around a decade ago she’d moved from European Café’s original Manitou Springs location into a charming cottage in Old Colorado City, maintaining and growing a loyal following.
Nothing was saying she couldn’t do it again, on the eve of European Café’s 30th anniversary in July. But where to? What would fit their vibe and style?
What about the old Dale Street Bistro Cafe downtown? It had closed late last summer (after a couple decades in business near the Colorado College campus). It’s a cute building, bright with pastel colors and already laid out in a suitable way for European Café’s size. Super fitting. Perfect, actually.
Jakubczyk jumped on the spot and her tiny team got to work soon after the last day of service in OCC, on Mother’s Day. They’ve spent the past month refreshing paint, scrubbing the kitchen, tidying the dining room and updating the front patio with new equipment and features. Regular patrons will recognize the familiar artworks of artist Pam Pappas, also a cafe front-house employee.
Home relocated home.
I spend some time on the first day of service downtown, June 11, dining and chatting with Jakubczyk and her front-house lead Tyler Correa, as well as two longtime customers seated nearby.
Correa explains that the menu’s pretty much the same since the transition, although some items have received new names for a refresh (such as Crepes Bozena) and they’ve begun offering breakfast items all day. Lunch items launch at noon, and service stops daily at 4 (but for Mondays and Tuesdays when they’re closed). Also, they’re working on getting a new liquor license.
What definitely hasn’t changed, says Jakubczyk, is everything made in-house daily — no frozen items, or cans beyond some tomatoes. “Everything is fresh,” she says emphatically. No microwaves or warmers, “now or ever.” They’ve also ditched the old deep frier (used for french fries) in favor of olive oil- and butter-cooked home fries. As the primary prep cook and shift cook, she ensures “everything is very clean and tasty and I treat customers well.”
Picture that said through a Polish accent. She’s the fourth generation to be cooking these family recipes, which started in her great grandmother’s kitchen. Pierogis made each morning, potatoes shredded for pancakes, etc.
I dine on a large potato pancake, which is similar to how my family makes Hannukah latkes, but thinner, and with less onions and salt. (Hey, that’s us.) It’s topped with Norwegian smoked salmon, a big dollop of sour cream and garnishing capers and red onions. I’m offered an egg on the side and say yes; after all, potatoes love runny yolk.
A pair of Russian pierogi must be had, so I add them to my order and relish them plus a crepe filled with sweet cream for a light dessert.
I ask the two regulars seated near me what their go-to items and favorites are. Marsha Garrett starts by saying “everything.” Then narrows that down to the cafe’s stuffed cabbage rolls with red gravy, Reuben sandwich, potato pancake with stroganoff, pierogis, crepes and the Polish sausage omelet, because of incorporated sauerkraut and cheese. “It’s really good,” she says.
Dennis Kleinsasser —who tells me he’s been dining at European Café weekly for the past decade, often with Garrett — says he loves the buttermilk pancakes (which he’s eating this day) and home fries. “Bozena’s crepes are wonderful, especially the dessert crepes,” he says. “Even just crepes alone with butter.”
He adds that he would sometimes go to Dale Street Bistro Cafe, and thinks “this is a really good fit for European Café — the atmosphere fits.”
Jakubczyk agrees, telling me “it’s smaller but so cozy — I love this building.”
I ask her if she does plan to retire anytime soon and she jokes with me about being “too young.” She’s been running the business for so long it’s a steady routine that she doesn’t find too hard. (Building sales aside.)
“I want to keep doing this,” she says matter of factly. Then an order comes in and she leaves me at my table, disappearing into the kitchen to cook.
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The Springs has a matcha influencer. I sat in on her class and came home prepped to make tea like a pro.
Just as third-wave coffee culture marks periods in recent history of great leaps forward in public understanding of craft standards, so too is finer tea culture enjoying a heyday across America.
Now, many of the best coffee cafes incorporate sophisticated tea drinks. Look no further locally than Cinchona. I hope you’ve had their blueberry matcha tea by now.
Just a couple weeks ago, I told you about the launch of BrewCha inside COATI food hall. Though it launched earlier in food truck form (and remains on the road as such), the anchoring of a brick-and-mortar holds significance to the Springs’ tea scene, which also owes a debt of gratitude to Yellow Mountain Tea House for introducing gong fu ceremonies years ago.
BrewCha has leaned heavily into matcha tea culture specifically, launching with a 10-drink “Pick Me Up Matcha” menu that includes an option to select unique matchas from one of four Japanese growing regions. Owner Fatima Concepcion recently tapped a friend to teach a Matcha 101 class at COATI, aimed at teaching the basics of making amazing matcha drinks at home, the traditional and proper way. I sat in.
The instructor was Dai, who prefers to go by her first name only here. Her handle (which you should follow) is @thematchamix. She regularly shares recipes for alluring drinks that look like this:
As for how the Springs has come to be home to a matcha influencer, Dai moved here three years ago. She was born in Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, and immigrated to the U.S. at age five, to Houston, Texas. She’s a pediatric physical therapist, and turned matcha making into a hobby and passion in late 2024 when she launched her page.
Her entry point to matcha, like many people, was at Starbucks, via an iced matcha latte that became her go-to order. But it wasn’t until she and a friend visited Japan in early 2024 that she had an ah-ha moment. “We went to a random donut shop and asked for a matcha latte,” she tells our class. “It was just regular milk, a regular latte, nothing crazy. But I took my first sip and had this epiphany. I was like, ‘what’s this?!’”
She says she went on a matcha binge for the rest of the trip, returning home determined to learn how to make it for herself. She started experimenting and playing with recipes, and soon was being sent samples for review from matcha companies. One of the first came from a boutique company in Japan, who she was able to meet up with on a return trip there at the beginning of this year, creating a rewarding, full circle moment for her.
When I ask her more about her “why?” she says “The Springs just has BrewCha and Cinchona. The more we educate, the more we build the culture. It’s time to get serious about matcha as a cafe. Because people are savvy and they will know when a cafe has not properly educated itself on matcha.”
Meaning they’ll understand when places are using commercial pre-mixes and blends with additives such as sweeteners built in, versus hand-whisking matcha with reverence, the traditional way, making exceptional drinks. To be fair, it’s not everyone’s model nor should it be, for quick-serve places especially. To some coffee shops it would be a distraction. But for others, like Cinchona, it has the potential to be another draw.
What Dai breaks down in her class is everything you need to know about matcha: from its origin and modern cultivation areas to growing and processing methods to healthful properties and understanding why colors and flavors vary. Obviously terroir plays a role, such as in matcha grown in volcanic soil, but so too does harvest time and other important factors. And freshness for the consumer is key.
I won’t steal her thunder here by relating everything she teaches in class, but one of the myths worth debunking, from her handout, is that the term “ceremonial grade matcha” is a product of marketing and not an actual scoring system that holds weight. So don’t be fooled into overly expensive products. That’s where her reviews come in handy, including this recent roundup of her 6 top matcha powders after trying over 50+ tins.
One part of the class I found surprising (read: effective) was the importance of prepping our palates with delicate sweets to counterbalance the bitterness of the matcha sips ahead. Dai breaks down three categories of traditional Japanese wagashi that can be as simple as mochi snacks found at area import markets.
I like that she exhibited the traditional pottery, glassware and equipment for a proper tea ceremony — clarifying that she’s not a certified tea master, equivalent to a wine sommelier — but encouraged attendees that they can make do at home with what’s on-hand. Though a scale and bamboo whisk are essential. (The cost of the class includes a take-home whisk for students to get them started.)
“The main thing is to get a high-quality matcha,” she says. “You can fudge the tools.”
We learn to make a “thin tea” (usucha) that can be drank as-is, and a “thick tea” (koicha) which we turn into a latte, pairing it with our milk of choice and an optional complementary sweetener. Everyone makes a couple drinks and departs properly caffeinated. (Watch my short video of Dai teaching us how to whisk matcha rapidly in the bowl.)
By way of a mini Q&A afterwards, I sit down with Dai to learn a little more:
What’s it like to be a matcha influencer?
The biggest thing is community. I have friends all over the world that I haven’t met in person, but we support each other.
For new drinkers, what are the most common flavors to look out for? What adjectives do you tend to reach for?
The most common flavors to look out for would be umami, floral, grassy, or nutty. Sometimes you can look at astringency, which is how the aftertaste dries on your tongue. Sometimes you will get other unique flavor profiles, such as a seaweed flavor.
What’s something that’s surprised you in a matcha?
One of my all time top favorites is so different than anything I’ve tried. It has notes of black sesame and Japanese milk bread.
What do you do with lower ranking matchas as you rate them?
If I get a powder that’s not my favorite I’ll use it in a sweeter drink recipe where the matcha can be more highlighted with complementary flavors. Sometimes a matcha will be more culinary-grade, which is better for making desserts like cookies and ice cream.
Who else should people follow to become more matcha informed?
Want to attend the next class? It will be on July 26 at COATI food hall (upstairs). Only eight spots available. Check BrewCha Tea Lounge’s website event page two weeks prior to sign up. There will be more monthly recurring workshops announced, so be on the lookout on that page for more dates.
Bites & Bits
• Firebrand, the high-end steakhouse concept that’s part of Tava House in Woodland Park, has now opened. You’ll recall from my story in early May that the massive new project originally launched with its event venue and downstairs taproom, complete with a self-pour beer system. Firebrand was on a delayed start as it cleared final health inspections, etc. Chef and co-owner Victor Matthews explained at the time that Firebrand would be devoted to primo steaks sourced from excellent ranches locally and nationally, and that there’d be a chef’s table option for customizable, drink-paired courses. It’s open 5-9 p.m., Thursday-Sunday presently. I haven’t yet been back up to check it out, but that’s on my list to do soon.
• Monse’s Pupuseria will open at 20 E. Colorado Ave. (in the former Saigon Cafe space they purchased) on June 23. There’ll be a ribbon cutting at 11 a.m. to kick off the first day of service. As with Monse’s Taste of El Salvador in Old Colorado City, everything at the downtown pupuseria will be gluten free. I’m slated to attend a private, pre-opening preview, so will likely have some photos and notes up on social media before the opening, or in next week’s newsletter.
• Berries Basket Cafe opened on June 16 in the former Red Lobster space at 4925 N. Academy Blvd. The mom-and-pop spot, billing itself as “a family-owned neighborhood cafe,” now serves all three meals, promoting “fresh ingredients, generous portions, classic comfort food, specialty drinks, and friendly full-service dining.” The breakfast menu features diner classics. The lunch and dinner menu offers everything from sandwiches, salads and soups to seafood, pasta, burgers and Greek-inspired items. There’s also a full coffee bar with espresso drinks, smoothies and more. I aim to stop by and check it all out sometime soon.
• In the above ad you’ll notice that Side Dish sponsor Stellina has launched a cicchetti hour — cicchetti being akin to tapas, but traditionally served in rustic Italian bars. Special weekend service from noon to 2:30 launches June 20, featuring not just small bites, but full Italian sandwiches on house sourdough focaccia. (Full menu here.) You’ll also find happy hour pricing on drinks and BOGO homemade gelato for dessert. (Give me all of the stracciatella, please and thank you.) We caught a preview meal a couple weeks ago, as Stellina sought early feedback from its regulars.
• 2026 James Beard Award Winners were announced earlier this week. One is Chef Penelope Wong of Denver’s Yuan Wonton, a three-time finalist and first-time winner. “Holy shit. Holy shit, I beat Johnny Curiel!” she told Westword.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
Bristol Brewing Company: It’s summer and that means it’s time for patio vibes. Head to the Barrel Room at Ivywild, now open for the season Thursday-Sunday, or grab an adirondack and chill outside in the Schoolyard. And don’t miss Music in the Yard Fridays 6-8pm featuring Wirewood Station on June 19 and The Fuzzheads on June 26.
bird tree cafe: We have one of the best happy hours around: 3-6 p.m. daily. Come in for our special Pride Month drinks, like The Gay Agenda, a beautiful, rainbow-layered sipper with blue spirulina, lavender lemonade, orange juice and alpine berry tea. Or if cold brew is your speed, get the Salty Bee Word.
Red Gravy: Enjoy happy hours from 4-6 p.m., Mondays-Thursdays, with half-off glass wines, drafts and well drinks plus apps on special. Pastarama persists with Lamb Ragu facing off against Rigatoni alla Vodka for all of June. Try them both before one’s knocked out for contention.
Blackhat Distillery: Experience Blackhat Distillery, where American Agave Spirits meet disciplined craft and elevated Colorado hospitality. Come sample and sip in our tasting room, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Tuesdays-Saturdays. Take a guided tour with our intimate Distiller’s Vault experience. Advance resos required.
Elephant Thai & Chaang Thai: Our house specialties include traditional Thai-style pad ga prow, Thai Boat Noodles, Pad Thai Woonsen with soft shell crab, and red curry duck with pineapple. We also served dedicated gluten-free, kids and vegan menus to accommodate all eaters.
Four by Brother Luck: Book a five- or seven-course private Chef’s Table with us for any occasion. Wine pairings available. Email info@fourbybrotherluck.com to reserve. Come see us for happy hour, 3-6 p.m., Tuesdays-Sundays.
Hoppenings of the week
Beer Events
World Cup Streaming: USA vs. Australia at Phantom Canyon. 1 p.m., June 19. Includes game-day specials like 80-cent wings.
Beers & Books Summer Book Sale at Black Forest Brewing. 11:30 a.m., June 20. Local authors, books, artwork and creativity.
Matterville Wolf Dog Meet and Greet at Dueces Wild Brewery. Noon, June 20. Get to know the area nonprofit and pet pups over pints.
Beer Releases
War Child IPA at Cerberus. A Triple IPA named after a character from Point Break. Releases June 21.
Mango Wheat at Goat Patch Brewing (all locations). A juicy mango wheat beer with soft wheat and a touch of hop bitterness.
Tangerine Sour at South Park Brewing. On draft and in cans to-go.
For full listings of events and releases download the free Hoppenings app on Apple on Google.
Upcoming events
June 18: Bar Mom’s Birthday Bar Crawl Fundraiser. 6 p.m. to midnight. $25 tickets benefit Care & Share. Includes VIP menu pricing at stops and commemorative challenge coin.
June 20: 4th Annual All-Star BBQ Cook Off at Texas T-Bone Steakhouse & Famous Dave’s BBQ. 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Free barbecue and guest vendor samples (including coffee and whiskey), live music and DJ, family activities, giveaways and more. I’ll be co-judging.
June 26: Made In America Wine Tasting at Wayfinder Coffee Co. 6-9 p.m.; taste six domestic wines with food pairings.
July 9: Taste of Pikes Peak at Hillside Gardens & Event Center.
July 18: Tag Ulan Baon Supper Club at Good Neighbors Meeting House. 6-9:30 p.m. Five courses inspired by Filipino rainy season plus welcome drink and take-home snacks.
For more daily events check out springsthings.co/events.
Food Truck Tuesdays at the Colorado Springs Pioneers Museum continue through Aug. 25 (with exception of July 7). Every Tuesday, 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Visit your local farmer’s markets: Full listings here via Visit Colorado Springs.
Parting shot(s)
Wow it was a packed week of events. Here’s some things I got into:
• Watching the first U.S. game of the World Cup at newly opened The Sportsbook Bar & Grill downtown. Huge space, tons of TVs!
• The Summer Sync Creator + Business Mixer put on by Springs Things at T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila.
• Learned to make a better and more traditional matcha at home, as featured in the above story.
• I Co-judged the Absolut Heat Streak cocktail competition with Jacob Pfund, owner of Rebel Rebel, at Avenue 19 food hall. A dozen local bartenders took the speed-drink-making challenge, and Allie Johnstone, operations lead for Choice Restaurant Concepts, took home the ticket to visit the Tabasco headquarters in Louisiana.