Focaccia sandwiches — full stop
Newbie OCC brand Pizzeria Leopold impresses with their sandwich game and sustainability-minded approach; The Warehouse Urban Grocer launches; Taste of Pikes Peak takeaways + more food and drink news
It’s rare that I keep thinking about something days after I’ve eaten it, but that’s how it is with the Godfather sandwich at Pizzeria Leopold. In the above picture you see layers of speck, prosciutto, mortadella and sweet sopressata — four types of fine, cured Italian pork products, each with its own personality — plus slices of sharp provolone, tomatoes, arugula, pepperoncini and red wine vinaigrette (staining the edges of the bread).
All that’s great, but it wouldn’t be nearly as impactful on anything other than Pizzeria Leopold’s house focaccia. After a couple of bites, I’m completely over the moon for it. The texture is just wonderful: crisp on the crust almost as if it has been fried (it hasn’t), then soft and spongy in the crumb while still dense and hearty. Finishing salt and herbs sprinkled on top lend flavor that complement the sandwich fillings such that the bread’s not a boring blank vessel for what’s inside but instead a standout ingredient itself.
All assembled the Godfather is a cold, fresh, herbaceous and garden-y delight, fabulous with a soft red wine or crisp beer. (It’s even better with a smear of basil pesto, which we order on the side along with an olive tapenade and truly fiery Calabrian chili-habanero-garlic sauce.) Since I’m obsessed, I have to know more about it, so I’m glad that my basic reporterly due diligence demands that I speak with the newbie Old Colorado City restaurant’s owners.
That would be Chris and Lindsay Lyons, who I learn have an interesting connection to another Colorado Springs eatery: Edelweiss Restaurant (a Side Dish Dozen member). Turns out Chris’s mom is Edelweiss owner Dieter Schnakenberg’s sister-in-law, and both she and Chris worked at the legacy spot for many years in the front of house. Chris cut his teeth in the industry there, having come over from Germany in his late teens.
He met Lindsay in Colorado Springs. She was a teacher who also worked restaurant jobs on the side in order to pay bills. She describes food as a mutual passion and “what connected us when we were first dating” and in subsequent travels together. Before they started a family, which now is composed of four kids under five years old, they jointly decided they wanted to “take a dive into the restaurant world” and began looking around the marketplace for an opportunity.
What caught their eye was a 30-year old neighborhood Italian market in Lakewood that was up for sale, named Deli Italia. They saw potential and went all in, quitting their jobs, selling their house and moving up to metro Denver. That was in 2018, and they spent the following few years, leading into the Covid pandemic, renovating the space and slowly converting it away from a grocery store with a sandwich counter into a pizzeria like what you see today in Old Colorado City. In 2021 they won the Denver Post’s reader-voted award for best pizza in the city; in 2022 they rebranded into Pizzeria Leopold (named for their son); and in 2025 they again won a best pizza vote, this time from the Denver Gazette.
“It was just us and one other person running it for the first two years,” Lindsay says, describing Chris’ continual R&D in the kitchen to develop his doughs, plus their exhaustive and meticulous researching to “find vendors that align with our standards.” She says after that first award, “everything just exploded.”
Flash forward and they found themselves desiring to return to the Springs to raise their family, which inspired the idea for a second location. It was supposed to launch around Memorial Day Weekend in 2025, but due to unforeseen challenges with their building renovation and other delays, it wasn’t until a full year later that doors finally opened. And ever since they have, there’s been a regular line at the door and waits as long as a couple hours to get a table inside or on the rooftop patio.
Back to how the sausage gets made: The focaccia was born out of an effort to eliminate food waste and find a purpose for extra pizza dough. Chris kept experimenting with different fermentations and such until he and Lindsay were happy, then tested it on their customers, who soon were requesting full loaves to take home. They bake sheet trays of focaccia in the late night or early morning hours, when the deck pizza oven’s not in use for pies.
I return a week after my initial visit to test consistency and try another sandwich, to make sure the focaccia is as good as I’ve convinced myself it is. The Italian Hero, with ham, capicola, two types of salami, provolone and fixings that include oregano and red wine vinaigrette doesn’t disappoint in any way (though I’m still partial to the Godfather). Once again, I’m mesmerized by the bread and savor every crumb.
As for the pizza dough, which I find quite pleasurable as well, Chris employs the poolish method of equal parts water and flour with a wild yeast activator, allowing fermentation over a 48-hour period. It’s a thin-crust style and they cook it towards well done. Lindsay refers to it as a “a Neapolitan and East Coast hybrid” that speaks to her roots in Boston, Chris’ time in New York for a period, and the Italian flours utilized. “Chris went knee-deep into the science before he got it right to create something we were proud of,” she says. After rounds and rounds of testing, finally: “we took one bite and said ‘this is the one.’” Similar to its focaccia offspring, it leads crisp before yielding with a delightful chew.
Something else you can try with the dough when you’re at Pizzeria Leopold is the hot sandwiches, where the dough is folded differently to form it into sandwich bread. In Naples, that’s called a Panuozzo. Think something closer to a calzone, but not sealed into a pouch.
We don’t end up trying one of those, but we do choose the tomato sauce-based P.W.A pizza, topped with pineapple, pepperoni, jalapeños, speck, pineapple chili marinated onions, Pecorino and hot honey. As you can infer reading that, it punches with spice, zing, layered sharpness and concluding heat — especially if you dip your crust in the aforementioned Calabrian chili-habanero-garlic sauce.
We also started with a shared appetizer of house meatballs made with Niman Ranch pork and beef. They’re smothered in tart, vibrant tomato sauce and get a cap of melted cheese, basil chiffonade and slices of olive oil drizzled focaccia.
To lighten that up, we also share a classic Caesar salad, tossed in a zesty Caesar dressing with housemade croutons and Parmesan slivers and slices of fried chicken cutlet that’s recommended to us by staff. Though you can get it as its own sandwich, we like the satisfying crunch and extra richness it brings to the Romaine salad. It’s not greasy or heavy.
Which brings us to something really important to Lindsay and Chris, which you won’t find emphasized on the printed menus, though their website’s “about” page does mention “as much sustainable, local, and organic, products as possible.”
Whereas I read that cautiously, with an eye out for common greenwashing, Lindsay more than convinces me during out chat that there’s no bullshit to it. She even offers to send me a full list of the vendors from which they purchase goods. “I’m beyond the definition of a crunchy mom,” she says. “If I can’t feed my kids here and feel good about the food, all this would be pointless. When it comes to the treatment of animals, and honoring the food and the process, that’s really what drives us. We stand confidently with what we put on the table. It’s the reason behind what we do.”
Other than the fine Italian imports, they cook in a scratch kitchen and make all their sauces and such. They use only avocado and olive oils and beef tallow for frying. They buy sustainably produced meats and have relationships with local purveyors like La Mozzarella out of Denver, who Lindsay says can deliver incredibly fresh cheese from single-milking sessions — basically the vendor calls the farmer as needed and a week later the product is ready.
They buy organic lettuces, and research to avoid glyphosate in all products. She recognizes that not everything is as local as can be, especially with the imports, but whatever they are buying is something of high quality that they vouch for. “We really look at where we get our ingredients from,” she says, noting that even flours they use for dusting the pizza dough are pricier Caputo flours; no corners cut.
The cool thing as I see it, all that accounted for, is Pizzeria Leopold’s pricing is totally in line with competitors and not ridiculously up-charged just because. Everything feels expensive in the marketplace these days, so it’s nice when there’s a real reason behind it that justifies the cost. Plus, they more than meet the threshold of a good value proposition, given how damn good the food is.
I remember thinking many months ago, when I first heard about Pizzeria Leopold’s impending opening, that Old Colorado City didn’t really need another pizza joint given Pizzeria Rustica and Slice 420. But now I see how clearly the three are different and awesome in their own ways. Pizzeria Leopold has created something special, from the heart, built around family, time-tested and public-applauded in Denver. I’m glad they gifted the Springs a location.
On that first visit, we relish our meal with good company on the rooftop, enjoying the sunset over the mountains, sipping Goat Patch and South Park Brewing beers. Despite how slammed the eatery is downstairs, our food arrives fast and our service is warm and personable.
I met the Godfather — and well, you now know where the story goes from there.
The Warehouse Urban Grocer now open
In September of last year I told you about the impending arrival of The Warehouse Urban Grocer, a spinoff attached to The Warehouse Restaurant.
Owner James Africano explained at the time that the idea for the market initially came about in 2018 as he was noticing the numbers shift on his banquet revenue from the private events space that Urban Grocer now occupies. The Covid pandemic did what it did, and Weidner Field arrived as a neighbor (changing the parking dynamic for large groups), and by 2024 he was 40 percent below 2019’s all-time-high numbers.
Flash forward and Urban Grocer quietly soft-opened earlier this week, ahead of a grand opening celebration planned for this Saturday, July 18, 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. (Ribbon cutting at noon; first 100 customers after the cutting will get a free Urban Grocer tote bag. Samples, including from local vendors will be served throughout the day.)
I stopped by the market earlier this week to take my first gander at the stocked-up shop and chat with Africano. We toured around for about 20 minutes as he pointed out the wide variety of goods and paused occasionally to tell me the backstory of a specific item — ranging from a premium, $25 can of poached Spanish tuna belly in Galician butter (set next to a $3.99 can of common StarKist as the affordable option) to an $8.49 box of stone-milled, heritage-grain purple barley pancake mix out of Arizona (which I bought and have since made breakfast with, and wow!).
“We want to be as inclusive to the Mill Street neighborhood as possible,” he says. “We sell Cheetos too.” And a shocking $1 loaf of housemade white bread. “Somewhere along the line you have to have your Costco hotdog,” he explains. “Our neighborhood is an odd mix, as we also have luxury apartments nearby, and Hillside and the West side, so there’s lots of diversity.”
As for other products, there’s a small selection of craft and domestic beers plus basic and fine wines, with ample N/A options. You’ll find beans from six local coffee roasteries and breads from three local bakeries alongside house-baked breads. (Oh, and Africano convinced Manitou Springs’ The Loft to sell him bagels.) There’s a whole cooler section dedicated to area ice cream makers; cheeses; a meat case at the butcher’s counter (for fresh-cut venison, lamb, bison, elk and pork) and frozen pounds of ground beef, yak and more; frozen and fresh grab-and-go meals and sandwiches; eggs and milk … the list goes on.
As for produce, The Warehouse Urban Grocer got certified to repack commercial organic items and house label them. They also buy from local growers like Austin Family Farms. I come home with bags of peaches, apricots and cherries.
I’ll leave you to discover the rest, like eight varieties of housemade pasta, locally produced sausages, a line of Warehouse dry spices — and, wait for it … homemade donuts. (Schnip tip: A limited amount are baked on Sundays, and sold until they’re gone, so don’t expect them past Mondays or Tuesdays.)
I couldn’t leave without trying out a sandwich from the bakery. I get the Prosciutto & Focaccia (on Provision-baked bread), which comes with prosciutto run through the slicer to-order, cherry sauce, mustard, tomatoes and provolone. It’s a fair $10 considering today’s marketplace. And it eats nice, light and fresh. I can’t rave about it like I did above for Pizzeria Leopold’s focaccia sandwiches, but that’s a tall order, and they cost nearly twice as much.
Anyway, from the eight options, if you want to try Chef Africano’s favorite, get The New South End, made with salami, mortadella, mozzarella and pepperoncini on your choice of bread.
When you go: market hours are 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., daily.
Bites & Bits
• Springs Magazine reported on The Brit Pub’s collaboration with the band Shinedown — set to play Weidner Field July 31 — which involves a dual sandwich promo that utilizes the band’s custom hot sauces. One is a jumbo shrimp po’boy with mango habanero sauce; the other is a chicken sandwich with slaw and chipotle garlic sauce. Check out the article for photos and more details.
• New Denizen has published her monthly list of 5 new restaurants & cafes you should know about. One is “A welcoming vegan restaurant with everyone in mind,” in Denver, named Mother Other. Other picks include newly launched spots in Breckenridge, Boulder and Grand Junction.
• Here are the most-anticipated restaurant openings in Denver this summer according to Westword. One of them: “Denver OG restaurateur Frank Bonanno is returning to Larimer Square, taking over the former Teds Montana Grill across the street from Tamayo with his latest concept: an Italian-Japanese fusion effort called Rōmyō (pronounced “Romeo”).” Westword also reported that Denver bar Number 38 was the most visited in the nation during World Cup.
• Local chef creators Season Two Taste’s latest newsletter features “Summer's Best Composed Salads & Homemade Dressings.” One is a fresh pea and asparagus salad with pistachios and feta.
• “There’s a perception that agriculture uses all the water. We utilize water out here, but the consumer consumes every last drop. Whether we grow vegetables or beans or beef or hogs or chicken, it’s being consumed in the city.” — excerpt from a worthwhile article you should read in the latest Ranch Food Direct newsletter (on p. 3), interviewing Joel Schneekloth, a retiring Water Resource Specialist with the Colorado Water Center and Colorado State University Extension, speaking on Eastern Colorado’s groundwater.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
Blackhat Distillery: This summer when you’re looking to shake up your cocktail lineup, reach for our Golden Hearth Cinnamon Pineapple Rum. It brings together juicy pineapple, smooth vanilla and warm cinnamon spice — and is the first ever branded cinnamon-pineapple rum produced. This limited-edition release is available now in our tasting room. Stop by for a sample, take a bottle home and help us decide if this new fan favorite deserves a second batch!
Bristol Brewing Company: Join our annual Color Fight this Saturday, July 18! Come and enjoy a bit o' beer-drinking and hurling handfuls o' color at friends and fam just for fun. Your $7 ticket gets you a white Bristol tee to battle in. Plus our free Friday night Music in the Yard series continues with Sofakillers on July 17, Red Rocks Rebellion on July 24, and Ty Gibbs on July 31, all 6-8pm.
Red Gravy: July’s Pastarama battle pits our June champion — Rigatoni alla Vodka with fennel sausage, spinach and Parmesan — against a new challenger: The Chuckwagon: featuring smoked brisket from Chuckwagon 719, charred poblano, cavatappi pasta and cacio e pepe sauce with Pecorino Romano.
Four by Brother Luck: Our new summer menu drops July 21, so come in to taste Four Corners summer ingredients treated reverently! Attend our six-course Wine Dinner with Guest Chef Lamar Moore on Aug. 6; $175 per person. Moore is celebrated for his Southern-inspired food.
bird tree cafe: Some say we have the best happy hours in town, 3-6 p.m. daily. You’ll find $3.50 mimosas, $6 bloody marys, $7 espresso martinis and other cocktails, $3 Bristol Beehives, $4 Jameson and Fernet shots and sandwiches, snacks and breakfast plates for $6 to $9.
Elephant Thai: Come see us at our new Monument location at 562 W. Hwy. 105. We’re open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 4:30-8:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday and 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Featuring five exciting new menu items.
Hoppenings of the week
Beer Events
2-Year Anniversary Party at WestFax Springs. Noon onward, July 17. Live music, live tattooing and more.
Color Fight at Bristol Brewing. 11 a.m., July 18. $7 includes a white Bristol t-shirt. Throw handfuls of color at friends and fellow attendees.
Warhammer Wednesdays at Wackadoo Brewing. 4 p.m. weekly.
Beer Releases
Strawberry Cream Ale at Fossil Craft Beer Co. Made with over 150 pounds of strawberries.
Blootycakes at WestFax Springs. A blueberry wheat with maple, inspired by blueberry pancakes for breakfast. (Releases July 17.)
Cantaloupe Blonde at Peaks N Pines Brewing. A cantaloupe-flavored ale. (Releases July 20.)
(Are you noticing the summertime fruit-beer trend? We’re up for it!)
For full listings of events and releases download the free Hoppenings app on Apple on Google.
Upcoming events
July 17: Coffee as Color, Texture, and Story - A Sensory Tasting Experience at Loyal Coffee. 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.; $34.
July 18: Tag Ulan Baon Supper Club at Good Neighbors Meeting House. 6-9:30 p.m. Five courses inspired by Filipino rainy season plus welcome drink and take-home snacks.
July 18: The 90s vs Y2K Bar Crawl at Atomic Cowboy. 4 p.m. to midnight; $18-$24.
July 19: Paella on the Patio at TAPAteria. Three seatings; $55 includes a drink. (Next up: Aug. 16, Sept. 20 and Oct. 18.)
July 23: 4th annual Pinot on the Patio at The Pinery on the Hill. 5:30-7:30 p.m.; $75.
July 25: 5-year anniversary celebration at Kinship Landing. 10 a.m. onward. Family friendly activities include face painting and yard games, plus live DJ set, food and drink specials and more.
July 26: Below the Belt Bar Crawl through downtown. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Meet at Counterfeit Cowboy to start. $25 tickets benefit Sues Gift (gynecological cancer support).
July 30: Sip with Schnip at Elephant Thai - Monument. 5-8 p.m. Come see the new location! Side Dish subscribers get one free Thai iced tea with your meal by request. Special pricing on newly created dishes: Grilled Beef Ribs, Beef Rib Khao Soi, and Salmon Choo Chee. Option to add a discounted Thai beer or cocktail. Full regular menu available, including abundant gluten-free and vegan items.
July 30: Tails, Tunes & Tastes at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo. 6-9:30 p.m. $64.75 tickets include two drinks and unlimited food samples. (Event repeats Aug. 27 and Sept. 24.)
Aug. 1: United We Rock Beer Festival at Rock Ledge Ranch. 2-8 p.m. Brews, spirits, live music and food trucks.
Aug. 1: Vine & Notes Wine Festival in Woodland Park’s Memorial Park. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; $45-$66.
Aug. 1: Indian Food Festival at Liberty High School. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; food samples, dance and music performances, food competitions and more. Free, or early access for $12.50.
Aug. 15: Pasta in the Park. 6 p.m. $120 benefits TESSA.
Visit your local farmer’s markets: Full listings here via Visit Colorado Springs.
Food Truck Tuesdays at the Colorado Springs Pioneers Museum continue through Aug. 25. Every Tuesday, 11 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Parting shot(s)
It was great to see and meet some of you at last week’s Taste of Pikes Peak. I enjoyed judging again this year, joined by ICONS co-owner Josh Franklin and KRCC’s Andrea Chalfin.
The food and drink on display was roundly awesome, and I loved the Hillside Gardens venue (new to the event this year) for the foliage-lined ambiance it offered. It was lovely to duck off the walking paths into shady spots and pause to enjoy some bites and sips — and socialize.
A special callout congrats to Cowboy Star for winning the Best Taste of the event with their Japanese Omi Gyu wagyu beef Steak Bites served with chimichurri aioli and a summer herb salad. This is steak so premium that it comes with a beef certificate of authenticity (displayed at their booth) which shows a list of details including the animal’s grading (A-5, the highest possible), slaughter date and location, production prefecture and more.
To call the steak mind blowing is practically an understatement. It was tender to the point of partially melting across the mouth. (That sensation is largely why the brand is revered.) People, including other restaurateurs and vendors, would get their sample bite and then get back in the line that kept forming to get a second taste. (Or third … I saw you … you know who you are.)
If you want to experience the magic of the meat yourself, you know where to make a reservation.
Anyway, here’s some pics from Ryan Hannigan’s photo gallery of the event, which you can visit to see all the images he snapped:
