Flower power 🍽
Bloom Ultra Lounge leads with a floral flair and bright cocktail menu
I confess: I don’t entirely know what an ultra lounge is, even after talking to Bloom Ultra Lounge’s staff and ownership about the term. And after having visited. Which is to say, yeah, I get that it’s a stylish subterranean bar, but I have trouble concisely explaining the difference between it and certain other swank spots that could probably lean on the term for their marketing, too.
I don’t know why I get hung up on this, and I probably shouldn’t, and you probably won’t, so just ignore my momentary obsession and remember that in the end it doesn’t matter so long as you’re having a good time. Which you probably will.
Bloom’s located on the basement level of 114 N. Tejon St., sharing hallway access with Shrunken Head Tiki. You enter via a door at street level just north of Bell Brothers Brewing’s taproom. As you can quickly read in my prior reporting, the spot’s operated by Stephon Black and Colter Lillich, who connected while working together in the industry in 2009. Black also owns the Samich Shack (inside COATI and at 5830 Omaha Blvd.) — and unrelated to the food world — he’s also a real estate broker and has done large-scale greenhouse construction and irrigation.
He originally told me that an ultra lounge as he and Lillich were envisioning it is a high-end night bar with fine decor and atmosphere and really good customer service, but not too expensive in this case. I got my first look at the decor this past February right before they opened the doors.
During my return this past week to finally dine and drink, Black showed up about half way through my visit and hopped behind the bar to help out. Lillich was floating too, shooting cell phone video for their social pages and touching tables. They’re hands on. Black recognized me and stuck around to chat with me and my guest, insisting on making us some samples of other cocktails we hadn’t yet tried. (So yeah, I got special attention, as he later comped those from the bill.) We talked about Bloom’s early months and growth, which has included lively karaoke nights on Tuesdays and one of the better service-industry nights in town: SINners and hospitality folks get 50-percent off drinks (excluding top shelf) plus food discounts and entertainment until late.
There was a DJ spinning 80s and 90s music during our visit, too, with one half of the room roped off for a class reunion. I was told that most nights the early dinner crowd morphs into a party crowd, with the bar eventually filling to standing-room only. We didn’t stick around that late to find out this particular Friday, ducking out for other adventures around 11. But not before we’d shared half a dozen cocktails and some small bites.
Bloom’s countertop-cooking-only (sans a real kitchen) limits it to a burrata ball and a charcuterie board on weekdays and an expanded menu on weekends that includes a couple savory fondue options and one white chocolate dessert fondue, tuna tartar, beef carpaccio, a salad and meatless meatballs. There’s also a lobster bisque we sip a sample of, perfectly serviceable as a purveyed product. After talking with the lone kitchen employee behind the bar — who introduces himself as Moose and tells me he also works at Samich Shack during the day — we decide on the always-available charcuterie board for its diverse medley of snacky things.
There’s nothing mind-blowing or unfamiliar on the spread, but again it’s well curated and composed. It holds the right mix of rich, funky, spicy, creamy, crunchy, meaty, piquant and sweet, lacking only in something overtly salty, like salted nuts. (A pinch of almonds would do fine.) But really this is just the backdrop for our cocktail-sipping experience, as we want something in our bellies for the booze, and it keeps our fingers busy between our banter (over the music and din of the dining room).
Starting with the above-pictured cocktail, the Secret Garden, I can say not all the pretty garnishes are best consumed. There’s sort of an old potpourri quality to the dried flower petal garnish that’s half lining the rim. It’s good for the visuals and aromatics but I sip from the other side and do enjoy the drink for its effervescent botanical nature. Lemon juice acidity and biting ginger beer receive Lee Spirits gin with a rosewater misting and cardamom bitters topping that fills in the crevices of a neat flower-form ice cube.
Here’s something cool that Bloom does: On the website and QR-code digital menu scanned on site, guests can see quick videos of each cocktail being made. So there’s no mystery behind their making, but there’s a certain alluring quality to watching the ingredients come together in the glass. Something like ASMR for the eyes instead of ears, but with more of a pull toward desiring the drink as a result.
Even something as simple as the Violette Lady is pleasing to observe under construction. It’s a spin on the classic Aviation cocktail, with Lee vodka in place of the typical gin, mixed with Lee crème de violette, lemon juice, simple and egg whites. Once the foamy, velvety head settles out, the bartenders dust the white cloud with raspberry dust for a pop of crimson offsetting the underlying pale blue potion.
The Emerald Agave picks up its Kermit-green hue from pandan leaf extract and Island bitters. Those color a blanco tequila and sappy coconut water mixed with simple syrup, lime, salt and egg whites. All that goes into an absinthe-washed glass once frothed and the foam cap receives more drops of the glitter bitters for garnish. The subtle tropical flavor in those plus the grassy pandan and island-evoking coconut-lime combo make for an overall refreshing drink that accidentally goes down quick. That said, I’m a lightweight and don’t find Bloom’s concoctions too boozy, especially in the instance of these with only one part spirit incorporated. I like their lighter aspect.
These drinks, I should note, aren’t overly sweet either, but stay in balance, which I and the morning headache that I don’t get appreciate. That said, if you want a sip a little on the sweeter side, ask for the house Lemon Blossom shot, basically a flavored lemon drop. It’s 360 Citrus vodka, lemon juice and your choice of house-made lavender, hibiscus, rose or butterfly pea syrups. We get the latter, which is pretty in pinkish purple, served with a sugar rim.
The Golden Hour cocktail seems like a nice way to wind down for whiskey fans ready for bedtime. That’s because of the chamomile garnish that creates an instant association for me of de-stressing and Sleepytime tea. Otherwise it’s composed with Rebel Yell whiskey, lemon juice, honey-simple and another egg white frothing that’s clearly a pattern at Bloom. In pre-prohibition style, it smooths out the sharp notes from the strong citrus and potent spirit and gifts a pleasant texture that matches well with Bloom’s floral showcase.
That said, in every healthy garden there be bees, and the Bee Sting cocktail interrupts the garden party with an amusing shock to the mouth. It’s my favorite drink of the night (thank you Suz for the recommendation) and a memorably fun sipping experience. I’ve mindfully saved it for last to describe. It begins with Lee gin, which receives Tingala liqueur, honey-simple, lemon juice and colorful strawberry purée. All mixed, that goes into a glass rimmed with honey and highly aromatic bee pollen. A skewer with a single buzz button flower rest across the top.
I had forgotten about buzz buttons in the same way I’d forgotten about miracle berry (which makes sour foods taste sweet for a decent spell of time). Buzz buttons numb the mouth momentarily after an initial punch of intense, astringent sourness. The Novocaine effect subsides to a Pop Rocks-type tingling sensation. For that moment, your palate’s pretty messed up and washed out to perceive other flavors true, but the sensation wears off quickly enough to not ruin your cocktail enjoyment. In fact, with this drink, it sets the tone, the drink’s tempo. Remember, it’s called the Bee Sting.
Tingala’s made with buzz buttons also, so there’s a layering quality to its usage. The liqueur also introduces a sharp herbal quality that matches the grassy, floral garden vibes punctuated by the sweet honey and bee pollen, which itself holds an initial intenseness as it spreads across the tongue, coating it with its unique, soft granular texture. Look — I’m on my third paragraph describing this one drink, so suffice to say it’s pretty spectacular and Bloom’s best expression of flower power.
To me, Bloom’s floral thematic most sets it aside from other cocktail spots. Though effeminate in beauty, it’s masculine with assertive, delightful pungency. The gardener and flower-lover in me appreciates all that. Making me think that Bloom would stand on its own just fine minus the “ultra” designation.
Dammit, I’m back on that. I’m sorry. My brain keeps returning to other associations, like ultramarathons or Michelob Ultra, or just the base definition of taking something to an extreme. Like, wouldn’t there be a terminal velocity to exactly how hard you could lounge-it as a business?
Screw it. Let’s ask ChatGPT, because that’s still novel at the moment. (I don’t use it for my writing, but I do find it helpful to scrape data.) I type in: “What is an ultra lounge?”
Here’s what it replies:
An ultra lounge is a term used to describe a type of upscale, high-end lounge or nightclub that offers a luxurious and sophisticated atmosphere. It is a fusion of a lounge and a nightclub, combining elements of both to create a unique entertainment venue. Ultra lounges are known for their stylish and contemporary decor, trendy furnishings, ambient lighting, and a relaxed yet energetic vibe.
These venues often feature plush seating areas, VIP sections, and a well-stocked bar offering a wide range of premium spirits, wines, and cocktails. Ultra lounges may also have a stage or DJ booth where live music or DJs perform, creating a lively and dynamic atmosphere.
One of the key characteristics of an ultra lounge is exclusivity and a focus on providing an elevated experience for its guests. They often have a strict dress code and may require reservations or guest lists for entry. These venues are popular among the upscale clientele who enjoy socializing, dancing, and enjoying music in a chic and sophisticated setting.
Ultra lounges can be found in major cities around the world and are frequently associated with high-end hotels, resorts, or standalone establishments. They cater to those seeking a more refined and glamorous nightlife experience.
Not bad ChatGPT. I actually feel pretty satisfied by that lengthy definition. Now only if I can remember it well enough next time someone asks me to define it. If I can’t, I’ll just say “go to Bloom, see for yourself.” Don’t get hung up on it, just enjoy the walk through the garden.
Wonderfully descriptive writing.