Dim sum delights
A preview of imminently opening Nana's Dumplings; Tap&Table documents the Texas way at Chuckwagon 719; new local eats at DIA; a Pin-Txi teaser; Taste of Pikes Peak draws nigh + events galore
Call me impatient (how dare you!), but I didn’t want to wait for Nana’s Dim Sum & Dumplings to soft open their new Colorado Springs location next week on July 14. So I drove to the S. Havana Street Aurora location last week and ate lunch with a pal. (And that, friends, is how you scoop other media — not that I actually care about that; it’s just fun to break trail versus eat dust.)
Nana’s, as I told you here back in late April, is a Westword-praised dumpling spot that’s on a super fast growth trajectory since it launched in LoHI in fall, 2023. There’s now Boulder, Aurora and Parker locations as well as a New York eatery, with three more spots on the way (another Denver, a Longmont and one in New Jersey) in addition to this Springs location at 1895 Democracy Point. Westword also shares Nana’s backstory of eight friends with a shared passion for their childhood foods, and how they’ve created showroom window spaces into each kitchen, where guests can view dumpling preparation. It’s all meant to evoke tradition and togetherness according to the company’s spokespeople. The article also offers a snapshot history of dim sum and how these snack items made their way around China and then the world.
Nana’s single-page menu — a sushi-style, vertical checklist where guests mark items and quantity in several categories — lists some familiar dishes among more authentic items not seen in typical Chinese-American restaurants. (The hip hop music playing also lets you know you’re in a more modern and hip dim sum dive.) To get started, we order a pot of green tea to sip on and the Oolong Old Fashioned to test Nana’s cocktail game. We’re wanting to taste the tea infusion prominently in the Kikori Japanese rice whiskey, but are disappointed to get more of a lingering note in the finish of the Disaronno amaretto it’s mixed with. It’s also on the sweet side, from honey, but it’s not without enjoyment.
The dishes start rolling out: Red Sea Chili Wontons, stir fried green beans, signature bao buns, xiao long soup buns and Nana’s Dumplings Roulette (which we get pan fried vs. steamed). Those Red Sea wontons might be my favorite bite, deep with shrimp-y and mushroom-y umami and spicy red chile earthiness. Those green beans (a heaping plate, also for $17.95 like the wontons) benefit greatly from red chile pepper influence too, plus abundant garlic and shallot essences and toasted sesame influence; their texture is perfectly al dente snappy.
The pillowy bao buns please us with vibrantly seasoned minced pork filling. We dip them into soy and chile oil, which also comes in handy for the xiao long bao soup dumplings, which gush a creamy broth that’s thankfully not too hot. (I damn near scorched my tongue when I had the dish in Shanghai years ago.) That brings us to the fun Dumpling Roulette, which is one each of Nana’s vegetable, shrimp and pork, chive and pork, chicken and corn, beef and celery, and pork and mushroom dumplings. They’re plated without a guide, so indeed there’s a bit of roulette uncertainty as you bite into each one, wondering what you’ll hit. Most interesting? The naturally sweet corn and chicken. Most disappointing? The vegetable, which tastes a bit like greens from a freezer. The others are pretty much read-as-written for flavors, which are overall enjoyable. It’s a dish to order for the variety if nothing else.
For dessert, I order us a trio of the salted egg custard buns, which are fist-sized orbs coated in coconut flakes. Their dough is a touch buttery and reminiscent of challah bread in a way, as it pulls apart with some glutenous stretch. It smells kind of like waffle cones being made in an ice cream shop, so that taste association follows with a bite into the molten core of salty egg custard. It bleeds out like an over-easy breakfast item, but this yolk is of course sweeter. I dig it; my dining mate not so much. (That’s okay — more for me.) Play the five-second video below for some oozy action.
My takeaway: Nana’s proves worthwhile and should be an easy hit in the Springs. We’ve lacked proper dim sum options (sending fans driving to Denver for years) and it’s nice to see a tested brand move into the market — before they blow up further if that’s their continued trajectory into chain-dom. It will be the most promising Chinese opening in town since Kung Fu Noodles and Dumplings, which I told you about here in early May. Both are emblematic of true Chinese; I’ve never been a big fan of American-Chinese places (send negative comments if you wish). I hope this trend continues locally.
If you miss the soft opening and want to give Nana’s a little time, aim to get by on July 29 for a grand opening celebration.
This chimichurri flank steak is lights-out delicious
Head to either Ranch Foods Direct retail location to pick up the Callicrate flank steak you’ll need for this month’s Schnip’s Pick recipe. Contributed by Chef James Africano at The Warehouse, it’s a fantastic, summer-friendly recipe that I’ve already made at home, wowing guests. Mention that you’re a Side Dish subscriber to get 5% off your whole shopping basket. Also, congrats to RFD owner Mike Callicrate for 25 years in business, bringing sustainably ranched proteins to our marketplace. “When Callicrate Cattle Company was blacklisted by the big meat packers, we shifted to selling meat instead of livestock. The alternative market approach goes around the current concentrated and corrupt food system, giving consumers a better food option,” he writes on his No-Bull Food News site (which is well worth subscribing to).
Behind the brisket with Tap&Table (an 8-minute short)
“Nobody’s proud of where they come from like people from Texas,” says Chuckwagon 719 co-owner Jared Hammond. “We’re proud of the food we make, we’re proud of the food we’ve been eating our whole lives. That’s what keeps us going. That and the feedback.”
Back in May, I told you about how Chuckwagon has a bell on the wall for customers to ring on the way out if they’re happy. They’re on their third bell inside of a year. “They ring them so much they break,” Jared told me at the time.
Ryan and I wanted to spend some more time with the Hammonds (Side Dish Dozen members) and glean more about their process and ethos for a Tap&Table segment. Speaking as the videographer/editor, Ryan says “it really came together in a way that highlights the hard work they put in every single day.”
Give us eight minutes and we’ll give you a smile or two (and a strong desire for barbecue in the coming days).
Also, stop by The Chuckwagon 719 on July 12 and July 19 to contribute to their Buckets to Backpacks Central Texas Flood Relief effort from noon to 5 p.m. They are collecting school supplies and backpacks plus non-perishable foods to send to affected families. “Growing up camping and floating the Guadalupe with my family this hits so close to home,” they say on a Facebook post.
Did somebody say “pizza party”? … (Save the date)
Flight plan
Story and photos by Lauren Hug
I love to eat local, especially when I'm killing time at an airport.
I was spoiled by flying through Austin-Bergstrom International Airport for years before I made the move to Colorado Springs. Opened in 1999, the airport made the pioneering decision to showcase local favorites rather than the usual national chain suspects and nondescript eateries serving bland, sub-par food. I actually looked forward to getting to the airport early so I could grab Salt Lick Barbecue (named one of the Best Airport Restaurants in the World by Bloomberg) and some Amy's Ice Cream.
I'm a “gotta get there early” traveler, so interesting local food options make killing time before a flight far more enjoyable. Before a recent international trip, we checked out new local food options at Denver International Airport. (Kind of like how Matthew did a roundup of coffee options at the C gates at DIA back in March.)
It was pretty early in the morning, so we passed on desserts from D-Bar and cocktails from Williams & Graham. Both were open, though, for anyone who wants sweets and alcohol to start their day. And I must admit the W&G speakeasy entrance is alluring, as are the range of dessert and pastry options at D-Bar.
Bagel Deli seemed like a solid breakfast choice, but sadly, the airport execution of bagels from this Denver classic was underwhelming. Even though a friendly staffer heated the bagel up, it was cold inside a foil wrap within mere moments. Not great if you're looking forward to a warm bagel when you finally get to your gate.
Tocabe, a restaurant specializing in Native American dishes, was a winner. It works kind of like Chipotle where you choose your base, protein, toppings and sauce. The red quinoa and wheatberry Posu Bowl nourished us with fresh, healthy and unique offerings. Though the ground or braised bison tempted, we went vegetarian. The Osage Hominy was my favorite topping. I can't wait to try more combinations, so I'll aim to hit the W. 44th Avenue main hub in North Denver sometime.
During a recent layover in Salt Lake City, I searched the internet for local airport food options. I found a Gastronomic Salt Lake City article (a publication I recognized because it won a food writing award in the same Top of the Rockies Excellence in Journalism category as Matthew) listing the best SLC airport dining. I knew I could trust its recommendations and my travel companions trusted me, so we made a 10-minute trek between terminals to eat and drink at Salt Lake City Brewing. Thankfully, the walk was worth it: classic pub fare elevated by quality, locally sourced ingredients. The beer was stellar too.
Soon, Colorado Springs Airport will be in on the local food options. Pikes Perk is already there — bittersweet since the coffee shop no longer exists elsewhere in town. In 2023, plans were announced for several beloved local names to join the airport lineup, including Atrevida Beer Co., Colorado Craft, Pizzeria Rustica and Street Eats by Chef Brother Luck. (A note on their website says Colorado Craft will be open this fall. Matthew reached out to the airport’s communications department for further updates, considering Drifter’s Hamburgers was originally announced too and has since gone out of business, but he did not receive any info in time for publishing.)
Lastly, as I was wrapping up this writeup, I stumbled onto this fascinating online article about the the history of airport food. It’s worth a read to see how we got from empty hangars 100 years ago to today’s bougie options for well-heeled travelers.
Bites & Bits
• Side Dish sponsor Big Red F (parent company to Jax Fish House) notched an award at the 2025 World Beer Cup back in May. Or, more specifically, Brewmaster Nick Tedeschi at Big Red F brand The Post earned a silver medal in the Other Strong Beer category for its East County Fine Malt Liquor. Tedeschi won that same silver award for this beer in the same category last year. (No Colorado Springs breweries place this year, though both Bristol Brewing and Goat Patch Brewing — two other Side Dish Dozen members — have won several medals in the past.)
Big Red F brands also won several Readers’ Choice Awards in 5028 Magazine’s Top of the Town 2025 best-of awards, published July 1. Best Fried Chicken: The Post. Best Mexican: Centro Mexican Kitchen. Best Seafood: Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar. Best Bar: Velvet Elk Lounge. The company also just announced its acquisition of Wonder Press Juice into its portfolio. Big Red F owners Dave and Dana Query were early investors in the business, which opened in June, 2015 on Pearl Street in Boulder. In their company newsletter, they write, “ we've been good friends for the long haul and seek to uphold the mission laid out by our founders every day… we help our guests flourish and live healthy, vital lives, support local farmers, and provide an enlivening social space for community.”
• In this section last week I noted that Tepex owner Fernando Trancoso recently posted to say that his lease at Avenue 19 food hall is up, and that Tepex is “officially put to rest” though something else was “in the oven.” He hasn’t waited too long to deliver his first big tease, with a graphic that says “coming soon!” As for how to say the name Pin-Txi-Wey, and what it means — well, I can tell you it’s some of the first Spanish slang that I learned when I entered the restaurant industry at age 16 and met some of the coolest and hardest working Mexican dudes I’ve ever known. During prep and service, they essentially ran circles around the gringos, and weren’t shy to boast about it. Since I was a greenhorn, they particularly liked to bust my balls, but they were also loyal pals. They would often say to me: “no mames wey” — which literally translates to “don’t suck” though it’s often utilized for incredulously toned “no way” or “don’t fuck with me, man” as I understood it. It’s playful kitchen banter.
Which brings us back to “Pin-Txi” — another way to say the F-bomb — which is no big secret given Denver’s Pinche Tacos (which later was forced to become Tacos Tequila Whiskey after authorities and licensing agencies got wise and bristled). Hopefully the powers that be locally don’t pay much attention or don’t care, playing some lame-ass puritan card on the business. That would certainly satisfy the Leechpit’s “Keep Colorado Springs Lame” motto. For what it’s worth, when I was in Barcelona in May, I walked past a place named My Fucking Restaurant that my friend, a local, told me is actually pretty great. As for what all this means for Trancoso’s plans for Inefable, which also closed at Avenue 19 prior, with a promise to return elsewhere, I don’t yet know. But we have a plan to chat next week, so expect updates soon.
• Sofia’s Antojitos has expanded into Woodland Park, opening the brand’s third location on July 5. It’s at 727 Gold Hill Pl S, the former location of Mountainara Cucina Italiana. The two other existing locations are at 4037 Tutt Blvd. and 1035 N. Academy Blvd. “Antojitos” are Mexican snacks and such, derived from street food favorites. Sofia’s does serve taco plates and slightly larger options that can easily compose a main meal. They also offer a wide drink variety (from mangonadas to milkshakes) and dessert items, making for a one-stop shop that’s relatively affordable. I visited the Academy Blvd. location in 2022 (for the Indy at the time) and really enjoyed a torta ahogada and house churros with ice cream, among other items. The Tutt expansion happened in 2023, so the company’s experiencing fairly fast growth.
• A Beans and Brews Coffee House franchise plans to open near Powers Boulevard and N. Carefree Circle in the fall. The brand launched in Salt Lake City in 1993 and began franchising in 2004. There’s now many dozens of locations across seven states, with an aggressive growth plan announced last year. Follow this C. Springs location’s Instagram page for updates. Meanwhile (and for the future), if you wish to support independent coffee entities in the city (instead) in that same geographical area, consider visits to Dynamo Coffee Roasting Co., Kangaroo Coffee (drive-thru, a Side Dish Dozen member) and Coffee and Tea Zone. Not far away on Barnes Road there’s also Humble Coffee.
• Hopefully you’ve been hitting some of this season’s farmers markets around the region. If you haven’t yet visited the new Colorado Springs Sunday Market in Acacia Park, it runs every other Sunday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. (Next up: July 20.)
• The Coffee Exchange is seeking donations via a GoFundMe to help with transportation and burial expenses for the son of the shop’s owner Andy Schlesinger. “He is the reason our staff and this community have such a special place to come together,” reads part of a post that shares the fundraiser.
• Among the 10+ new restaurants you should know about according to Denver’s New Denizen, Semiprecious looks particularly exciting, especially for cocktail enthusiasts. It comes via a highly rated Los Angeles operator known for “serving breezy cocktails crafted using laboratory-level techniques.” Meaning “custom refrigeration techniques that’s integral to their process – chilling cocktails to their exact freezing point to retain a frosty serving temp without using any ice.” That includes for N/A drinks. Bonus: all sips are under $15; not bad considering the craft and today’s marketplace. Make time to check out the whole list and subscribe to New Denizen’s Substack for free to keep tabs on the Denver scene.
Come feast with us at the 2025 Taste of Pikes Peak
We’re approaching last call for discounted Taste of Pikes Peak 2025 tickets. Use the promo code SIDEDISH for $5 off a general admission ticket. Or buy a VIP ticket, which includes early entry at 5 p.m. and access to a private VIP section where you’ll get exclusive tastings from my Side Dish Dozen members! Two examples: Red Gravy’s Chef/Owner Eric Brenner will serve Sea Scallop Puttanesca with angel hair pasta, capers, olives, blistered tomatoes and pesto sauce. And the team at Edelweiss will dish you a German Shashlik: an an assorted meat shish kabob with yellow and red bell peppers, red onions topped with a brown sugar whiskey glaze.
Taste of Pikes Peak acts as the main fundraiser for the Pikes Peak Chapter of the Colorado Restaurant Association. Plus it just happens to be the most awesome annual food and drink event in the Springs, if you’re asking me.
Still with me here? Great. Then comment on this newsletter for a chance to win a pair of GA tickets. Tell me you want to be considered in any phrase of words that comes to mind. (I’m in no mood for silly shit like making you tag friends or businesses or post videos or do push ups, etc.) I’m giving away two sets; I’ll draw randomly from everyone who leaves a comment. Look — I’m even giving you a button. It’s right here. Click it! Amuse me.
*Related/Unrelated: Have you picked up your copy of the 2025 Taste of Pikes Peak Dining Guide? It’s free, and found all over town at over 300 locations. Side Dish is proud to be one of the featured businesses in the guide — flip through to find my ad. Autographs available at the event. (Not really.)
Side Dish Dozen happenings
Goat Patch Brewing: Our Summer Music Series continues Sundays, 6-8 p.m. at Lincoln Center. Wednesdays are Bleating Heart Nights, in benefit of local nonprofits (next up Friends of Cheyenne Mountain State Park). Wednesday Trivia Nights are now live at our Northgate location, 6:30-8:30 p.m. (Win prizes!) Mark your calendar for our July 24 Sip with Schnip Grazing Goat Pizza Party at Goat Patch Northgate, 6-9 p.m. It kicks off Goat Patch’s 8th Anniversary Weekend.
Stellina Pizza Cafe: Join us for our Stellina + PikeRide Community Group Ride on July 22. All day happy hour for riders, 3-9 p.m. Also catch $22 Two For Tuesday deals: two classic pizzas or a classic pizza and a salad. Happy Hours, 3-5 p.m., Tuesday-Friday, feature BOGO apps and small gelatos plus $2 off boozy bevs.
Edelweiss: Bring a few friends in for a round of drinks and a taste of our newly created appetizer platter, loaded with assorted deli meats and cheeses, hardboiled eggs, pretzels, a veal and pork sausage patty, rye bread with cream cheese and chives, vegetable crudités, Castelvetrano olives, sweety drop peppers, and mustard, lingonberry and spicy orange-ginger dips; $36.
Wobbly Olive: Every weekday happy hour at both locations is 4-6 p.m.; all cocktails and beers are half off, plus $5 house wines. You’ll also find our new, dedicated, extensive mocktail menu — also 50% off during happy hours — thoughtfully constructed with fine N/A spirits. These aren’t lazy sugar bombs; they’re just as complex and interesting as our flagship cocktails.
Odyssey Gastropub: Limited seats remain for our unique July 20 Forks & Flicks night, where our team will make food from the 2014 culinary cult hit film Chef, starring Jon Favreau. As you see it on screen, you’ll be able to taste it at your table. Drinks package available.
Kangaroo Coffee: The July drink of the month at all locations is our stellar Strawberry Blue Razz Italian Soda. Sit and sip at our Hillside Coffee House or hit our drive-thrus to discover delightful, staff-created drinks of the week. If you’re in a hurry, order online for in-store pickup, or if you don’t wish to go out, have a drink delivered through Uber Eats or DoorDash.
Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar: Your fix for teeny martinis. For a limited time while downtown gets a glow up, join us for $5 mini martinis featuring your choice of house-infused spirits: strawberry vodka, ginger vodka, cucumber vodka, or green tea gin. Also catch daily happy hours: 4-5:30 p.m., Tuesdays-Sundays and all night Mondays.
Upcoming events
July 12: 29th annual Brewers Rendezvous in Salida. Noon-5 p.m.; $24.11-$70.29. Unlimited samples from dozens of fine Colorado breweries plus live music and more.
July 12: Farm-to-Table Summer Harvest Wild New American dinner at Smokebrush Farm. 5-8 p.m. Featuring ingredients grown at the farm and around the state. Subsequent dinners with different themes run Aug. 3 through Nov. 15.
July 14: An Evening of Culinary Artistry: A 5-Course Food & Cocktail Pairing with Nouveau at Cocktails After Dusk. $85; N/A pairings available; seatings at 6 and 8:30 p.m. are each limited to 14. View the menu here.
July 17: 2025 Taste of Pikes Peak. 6-9 p.m. in front of the U.S. Olympic & Paralympic Museum. $65-$125. Side Dish Dozen members will compose the VIP area! Use code SIDEDISH for $5 off GA tickets.
July 18-20: WestFax Springs 1st Anniversary Weekend. Live music, food trucks and exclusive beer releases like Suburban Lumberjack Hazy Pale Ale, Banana Split Smoothie Sour, a triple dry hopped hazy IPA and — wait for it … a Dubai Chocolate bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout infused with cacao nibs and pistachios. (Yes, the dessert trend has made its way into beer!) Full schedule at the link above, and if you still aren’t familiar with the brewery, check out our Tap&Table episode with its brewer/owner Anthony Martuscello.
July 19: Field of Drinks Brew Festival at Fountain’s Metcalfe Park. Noon to 4 p.m.
July 21: Cocktails After Dusk's Fight Nights presents "Unfinished Business: The Redemption Round!" 6-8:30 p.m. $25 includes three full-sized cocktails.
*July 24: Sip with Schnip Grazing Goat Pizza Party at Goat Patch Northgate. 6-9 p.m. Kicking off Goat Patch’s 8th Anniversary Weekend. First beer free for paid-level Side Dish subscribers. $2 off all additional beers for paid subscribers. $2 off beers for all free-level subscribers. Special pizza release: spent-grain dough with bacon and a ricotta spread made with garlic, Calabrian peppers, Goat Patch Hazy IPA and lemon oil; garnished with arugula and hot honey.
July 24: Dine Out for Ukraine at all Big Red F locations, including Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar Colorado Springs. A portion of proceeds from sales all day support Sunflower Seeds Ukraine. The funds are used to provide medical aid, protective gear and humanitarian assistance.
July 24: The Big Eat 2025 at the Denver Performing Arts Complex. 6-9 p.m.
July 26: Hillside Neighborhood Brunch and Fundraiser at the Hillside Community Center. 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Brunch, vendors, games, music, prizes and more. Tickets: $12.51 to $17.85.
July 26: Tag-Ulan (rainy season) dinner with Baon Supper Club at Good Neighbors Meeting House. 6 p.m; five Filipino courses, $85.
July 27: Culinary Deep Dive, Coastal Mexico dinner at The Carter Payne. 6 p.m.; $120.
July 31: Top Chef Dinner with Jamie Lynch at Four by Brother Luck, 6 p.m., six wine-paired courses, $165.
July 31: (Road trip!) Rebirth Brass Band Dinner & a Show at The Post Boulder and Velvet Elk Lounge. Join Big Red F brands for a fun night out — three pre-show courses include Andouille Sausage Hush Puppies, Blackened Chicken Étouffee and Sweet Potato Pie. (I saw the Rebirth Brass Band in NOLA around a decade ago and was absolutely blown away.)
Parting shot(s)
I did something last week that I haven’t done for a very long time. Years and years.
I went fly fishing.
I could barely remember how to assemble my rod and reel and tie flies on. Thankfully, my buddies who were in town to visit me — from Boston and Seattle respectively — graciously showed me the ropes (er um, fishing lines) again. Muscle memory finally kicked in and I was able to land some small but beautiful rainbow and brown trout in some challenging (windy) conditions.
The three of us and another dear friend had all driven the Alcan Highway to Alaska the year after we graduated from Colorado College’s English/Creative Writing program. That was in 2002. They taught me how to fish along the way, as we meandered through West Yellowstone, Montana for initial training and then shot a couple thousand miles north to catch the King Salmon run outside of Anchorage in early summer. We hauled in some monsters, smoking dozens of pounds of meat to eat and share with friends and family over the next many months.
Anyway, it was good to be back on the water. And even better to be with the only guys I ever stand in frigid river water with all day.
I would love to attend and pig out!
Would love to go - have never been! Also, would love to try Nana's Dumplings after reading about it in your newsletter. Even if I don't win, I'll be going to this new restaurant.