Coronating Colorado
The Michelin Guide announces its Colorado winners (and not everyone's happy), Cerberus celebrates 7 + more food & drink news
The talk of the town this past week in culinary circles and beyond was the announcement of The Michelin Guide awards doled out in Denver, Boulder and Aspen. Five single stars in total, plus a couple green stars (for sustainability) and several Bib Gourmand nods (for best value for cost).
As I noted in this newsletter back in June, this is the first year Michelin has covered Colorado’s culinary scene, adding to the excitement inherent to the prestigious, culinary king-making.
But as many celebratory photos you’ll find of rightfully ecstatic restaurateurs and chefs hugging on the puffy white Michelin Man mascot, so too will you encounter lots of laments and mild backlash across social media pages. Not because of who didn’t win, but because of the big money behind the grading system as a whole.
In part, we can thank a New York Times article published the same day as the Michelin award ceremony at Mission Ballroom in Denver: Michelin’s Coveted Stars Can Come With Some Costs. Subhead: “As its universe of dining guides expands to new places, the company is asking those regions to help pay the bill. And some chefs fear the honors are fostering a world of restaurant clones.”
The article, by Julia Moskin, quotes outspoken C. Springs celebrity chef and mental health activist Brother Luck as disappointed that the state’s second-largest city was left out. But many of us also came to learn through the story that Denver, Boulder and several ski towns had paid Michelin between $70,000 to $100,000 in order to be included for consideration, while the Colorado Tourism Office also kicked in $100,000 (this year alone; it agreed to pay that annually for three years). The cities of Aurora and Colorado Springs declined to participate. CTO Director Tim Wolfe was quoted saying, “if Colorado Springs wanted to get involved, they have to get involved.”
Visit COS declined to comment to the Times on the matter, and when I reached out to them on Sept. 13 with a friendly appeal to hook a local reporter invested in our community up with a quote, I was also told “VCOS will not be commenting at this time.” (Aw, shucks — was worth a try.)
I posted the NYT’s article on our Culinary Colorado Springs Facebook group, soliciting opinions on the matter. Among those who commented was Brother Luck: “At the end of the day awards and recognition should not be why we do this. I think ‘pay to play’ is wrong. Top Chef [on which Luck appeared] does the same thing when deciding which city to film. After my [NYT’s] interview, I had a great conversation with [Visit COS President and CEO] Doug Price to better understand the financial decision of not participating. He made the right call. I personally don’t think any of these platforms should justify our value. The staff and customer experience will always tell you the truth of where you’re really at. None of us are perfect so why chase the unattainable?”
That may be as close to an answer we’ll get (a hint at least) as to why our area’s marketing organization declined to pony up several hundred thousand dollars over the next few years. Indeed, would it be the wisest use of public funding? (Much of which comes through our local lodging and auto rental tax, mostly paid by tourists.) And if we’re honest, how many stars or even Bib Gourmand designations do we really think we’d win today? (Side thought: Maybe the Broadmoor alone should have ponied up because they’d stand a chance via the Summit or Ristorante del Lago. In effect they could have benevolently sponsored others in the area to at least get judging attention.)
A couple other (local, independent) chefs commented on my post. Hannah Cupples said, “Ever since culinary came into fashion in the public eye, the standards for what actually makes good food has taken a sharp detour from quality and actual skill to attention and clout-chasing. It's a popularity contest.”
Talor Migliaccio said, “… I think [the film] The Menu gives a fine commentary on Michelin. Also, I think the story of Noma [which dominated the culinary world for 20 years but announced it’s closing] is quite telling. The pursuit of stars and the (imo) misguided chasing of art over amazing food has led to a twisting/corruption of what food even is. The boundaries of flavor must always be pushed, but the molecular gastronomic direction, and the elitist push of hyper locality may have gone too far. These attributes are not exclusive to the food world. The boundaries on wine, whiskey, and other spirits are being pushed similarly. As I see it, we are going through a revolution of sorts, where the very value of food and those who make/serve it is being challenged…”
For my part — and I won’t launch into some overly grand editorializing here — I will say it’s obviously not a perfect system. Michelin as a business needs to make money to pay for reviews at the most expensive eateries internationally (which includes travel, lodging and peripheral costs) in addition to all other standard operating costs at a big-business level. Who’s going to pay for it? Obviously not the restaurants directly so as not to invite conflict of interest. (There goes my Broadmoor idea.) So is asking municipality tourism boards to pony up money (in addition to seeking corporate sponsorships) truly faux pas? Would it be any less insulting if the dollar figure was lower, like $25,000 or less? What would make up the margin, assuming it’s not over-padded with profit?
Back to Brother Luck’s point about chasing awards being the wrong reason to be in the industry. Sure, humility wins the day. But eaters are still going to want professional restaurant reviews (like the ones I provide, ahem) to help sort out all the suspect ones listed on online rating sites like Yelp. I’ve reviewed Michelin guides and lots of local-to-my-travel-destination media resources to curate my own to-do (to-eat) lists while on the road. We’re all chasing the dragon when we seek out our next memorable meal that comes at a high cost. Someone’s got to sort through the middling malaise to find the sweet spots. (Many someones in fact.)
In my own way since starting this Substack six months ago, I can relate to the challenge that Michelin faces both in funding and public perception. I need to earn a living wage for my journalism work (an ever complicated feat these days) and pay for my review meals out and other expenses to run Side Dish. It’s just me wearing all the hats now: writer, editor (with occasional help from a smart and supportive partner), publisher, marketing/sales, accounting, publicity, etc. Who I approach for sponsorships could taint my readers’ opinions of me. Integrity and transparency are tantamount. In a perfect world, I would earn enough funding through paid sponsorships alone (at the $5 monthly rate) so as not to need any outside underwriting. (Currently just over 12 percent of my subscribers are paid, so if I even converted double or triple that I could focus on more content and less pavement-pounding for funding as I continue my startup phase.)
My work is not pay-for-play (unless I ever entertain any sponsored content, which would be clearly marked as such; that’s not in my current plans) and I’ll continue my editorial coverage as I would regardless of sponsorship, covering the news I wish to and reviewing the spots I care to, with what’s best for the reader sharply in mind.
But like Michelin, I too need to make money to make the whole machine run. Try as I’m doing right now to build it to be sustainable and hopefully capable of allowing a work-life balance, it’s likely it won’t be perfect and unassailable.
Back to what Brother Luck said: “None of us are perfect so why chase the unattainable?”
Side dish is proudly sponsored by Ranch Foods Direct
Playing off what I just wrote above: Side Dish is grateful to have the support of Ranch Foods Direct, which whom I and Gather Food Studio collaborate on a monthly recipe that utilizes a RFD beef or pork product. RFD owner Mike Callicrate is a tireless food activist who’s always raising hell as a small producer fighting against corrupted federal systems and Big Ag entities. In the above video, he earns a good laugh for calling out IBP back in the day — for asserting that cattle brought into the U.S. from Canada were somehow not “imported.” And speaking of imperfect systems — well, you can see the wild ones he’s up against. Give it a watch. It’s only two minutes.
Side Dish events this week ahead
• Bar Battle Round Three at Tipperary Cocktail Parlor inside Folklore Irish Pub. The house team battles bartenders from 503W this month for the cash prize. Free entry and free samples from competitors’ creative drinks. Monday, Sept. 18, 6-8 p.m.
• Triple Anniversary Bash with 291 Distillery, Side Dish and Local Relic at The Carter Payne. Local Relic’s turning eight this month; Distillery 291’s turning 12, and Side Dish marks six months since page launch (a big deal to me). Expect 291 stave-smoked brisket (Texas or Carolina style) with Serrano cornbread and a kick-ass potato salad. Araucana will make specialty cocktails with 291 spirits available that night only. 291 will be in the house with a tasting table, some special release whiskies (and maybe some anniversary treats). And Local Relic will have super cool anniversary bottles, 291 barrel-aged barleywines bottles and much more. Also, I’ll be on hand hanging out with guests and talking food and drink, while Joshua Janitell will be playing music on the patio. Thursday, Sept. 21, 6-9 p.m. Don’t miss this one.
The Taste of OCC has returned this year. Expect 20-plus Old Colorado City restaurant and beverage vendors displaying their finest for your gustatory delight.
Cerberus celebrates 7 this Sunday
My content partner Ryan Hannigan at Focus on the Beer has done a wonderful writeup on Cerberus Brewing Co. to honor its 7th anniversary. Check out 49 Dog Years and Counting over at his Substack named Focal Pint. (I also dig the “Tenets of the Three Headed Dog” headline.) Since my early August reporting, Focus has an update on recently returned Cerberus Chef Mark LeFebvre . (Apparently LeFebvre was there to right the ship and hand steering over to Chef Shawn Smith, who was there between initial launch and 2021, now returned as well.) Ryan also chats with Head Brewer Troy Johnson and co-owner Jerry Morris. I don’t want to give away all the goodies so I strongly suggest you click the above link and give the article a read.
Reader comment of the week
“I have been dreaming about this [El Chapin Handmade Burgers & Shakes burger] since your post, and finally had this for dinner after a massage where I was like, no way am I cooking tonight. It was delicious and the fries were stellar! Enjoying your content and love all the great recs!” — adam.blake.writes
In brief
• Chef Noah Siebenaller (State of Plate, Ep. 4) will depart from Cheyenne Mountain Resort at month’s end. “I've taken an EC position with Quality Branded out of NYC,” he tells Side Dish. “I'll be the EC for 3 of their brands in Cherry Creek”: Kini’s, Cretans, and Chez Roc. Congrats, chef! He will be a loss to the Springs’ scene.
• A third C. Springs Graze Craze location recently opened at 2035 B St. The franchise has more than 30 locations across roughly 20 states, with more on the way. They claim to be “the innovator in an attractive food trend sweeping the nation known as "Grazing." (Which, being honest, makes me think of cows.)
Other upcoming events:
• Saturday, Sept. 16: Pikes Peak Permaculture will host a special fundraiser from noon to 6 p.m. at Ranch Foods Direct’s East retail location. Meet local farmers and catch local product vendors and educational booths alongside live music, kids activities and food trucks. Entry is $10 (under 12 free) and supports PPP’s “mission to provide education and instruction to the general public on the nature, ways and benefits of the discipline of Permaculture.”
• Saturday, Sept. 16: Bines & Brews Beer Fest in Monument.
• Saturday, Sept. 16: the 2nd annual Best of the West Wing Fest takes place. (Check out this awesome segment “Wing Fest Unplucked” on the COS Business Podcast.)
• Friday, Sept. 22: The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey throws its big, annual Winemaker’s Dinner from 6-9 p.m. at the Royal Gorge Bridge and Park. Cheyenne Mountain Zoo Executive Chef John Kuespert has created a special nine-course menu for $150 (which includes tax, tip and a commemorative glass).
• Saturday, Sept. 23: Trainwreck celebrates its 1-year anniversary with an all-day party. “It’s our birthday, but we haven’t grown up,” reads a promo advert on their Facebook page. Me: 🤨. (FWIW I still catch heat regularly for my review late last year.)
• Sunday, Sept. 24: Taste of OCC. **Side Dish is giving away a pair of tickets, and I’m curious what your favorite Old Colorado City restaurant is? Come take a silly selfie with me at this upcoming week’s Bar Battle or Sip with Schnip to get entered.**
Parting shot
You didn’t know I was gone (thanks to scheduled posts and lots of work ahead for me in recent weeks). But last week I departed for a much needed vacation and spent several days on a beach for part of it. I’m leaving details vague because sometimes it’s nice to hold stuff back for myself to relish before blasting photos across social media. That said, I am working on some writings I’ll soon share by way of travel pieces as part of my ongoing experimenting here in Side Dish’s early days. After all, maybe some of ya’ll want to know what I think about things on the road, perhaps as inspiration to follow in some of my footsteps. (Do you trust me?) Anyway, for now, here’s a snapshot of a happy hour I repeated more than once — to take advantage of fresh oysters while I was oh so close to their harvest site. Slurp, and cheers.
It sounds like Visit COS dropped the ball, hence their no comment stance. For a town that likes to say it's business-friendly, we keep doing things that don't help our local businesses, but roll out the red carpet for chains...sigh.
Thanks so much for this illuminating post, Matt. I had no idea that the Michelin awards were pay to play.