A shared cup
The communitarian origins and lesser-known story of Kangaroo Coffee; Chef Noah Siebenaller returns to grow Evergreen Restaurant; Brakeman's Burgers is back + more food & drink news
Though Kangaroo Coffee has been a brand in Colorado Springs since 2011, I’d wager a lot of people still don’t really know them. I mean, sure, you’ve had a cold brew or hot latte from the Eighth Street or New Center Point drive-throughs, or maybe you’ve enjoyed their signature, six-shot white chocolate-caramel breve Avalanche or a fruity Roofresher at a Switchbacks FC match, or a burrito, bagel or sweet treat at the sit-down location in Hillside next to Prospect Lake.
Point being you generally know the product profile. Of course. But I suspect the business’ backstory and deeper community reach — mainly its social responsibility and social impact bent — may have evaded you under all the froth and somewhere between where your sip of the dark, good stuff ended and your workday began.
You don’t have to care about those factors to dig Kangaroo Coffee — much like you can relish your Patagonia jacket without strong regard for their Benefit Corporation status. But once you get to know Kangaroo owner, Doug Hammond, you’ll likely find a new appreciation for the outfit and reason to feel good about your next cuppa.
Doug’s not a guy who talks about social and sustainable practices in a BS, greenwash-y kinda way to sell coffee. He’s actually the guy that co-created the social responsibility movement itself 40 years ago, rubbing elbows with friends and creative cohorts like the founders of Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream and Stonyfield yogurt. You wouldn’t know it, because he’s not a braggart, but he was at the forefront of what grew to be a global cause and methodology. In some circles it’s fair to say he’s a big deal. Around here, I feel his story is under-told. I’m going to remedy that.
I’ve gotten to know Doug reasonably well over the past nine months, as he stepped forward as a Side Dish Dozen member to co-sponsor this newsletter. Kangaroo Coffee is my feature business for November, hence the timing of this story. It starts in 1979, when Doug was 23, living in a cooperative housing unit just outside Boston, fresh out of college with a plan to study human rights law. To give just a little insight into how loose of a plan this was, he says as a drummer in his youth, he first thought he was going to attend a professional music school, then as a third generation sailing family member, he pondered becoming an oceanographer.
But when “by chance” the road instead led him to employment in the emerging self-determination rights movement for disabled adults, he was inspired to make the system sustainable for all involved. So, with only $58.64 in the bank, he ended up creating his own business called Relief Resources, the first personnel agency for the social service sector. “I was trying to figure out how it could all function better,” he says, “and I ended up starting one of the original social enterprises in the country — profit with purpose.”
He says he made it up as he went along, with no business model to follow, which offered equal parts freedom and challenge. In time he came to identify three key elements to his approach: employee experience and wellbeing, business performance and community impact. What started as a one-man show ended up employing more than 10,000 people across New England over a nearly 30-year period. To simplify it further, know that Doug and company worked to disrupt broken systems and reject corporate greed, creating what became the model for social responsibility, with a people-first mindset.
Then, ironically, synchronistically or however you choose to see it, the very same day Wall Street fell in 2008, he was offered the executive director position at the Business Alliance for Local Living Economies, an organization he cofounded in 2000 that gave birth to the “think local first” movement. It grew to represent community networks throughout North America encompassing more than 20,000 businesses working toward more equitable ecosystems.
After serving time in this capacity, Doug created a sustainability consulting firm. It took him everywhere from Haiti in 2010, for earthquake rebuilding, to New York City Public housing to educate youth on sustainability pathways opportunities, to Asheville, North Carolina to design a sustainability/economic impact roadmap for the Biltmore Estate. He was commuting from home in Deerfield, Massachusetts, “always with a suitcase on my floor and returning just long enough to pet the cats and take back off,” he says.
But it was in Ashland, Oregon where he was retained to develop the Novalis Project, a 2000-acre research and education facility centered on regenerative practices, where his path unexpectedly (again) led him to a new opportunity — and the coffee part of the story. While in Oregon (birthplace of Dutch Bros. if you didn’t know) the funder behind the Novalis Project asked him to consult with a relatively new coffee company in Colorado Springs named Kangaroo Coffee, started by said funder’s god daughter. The business was undergoing changes around 2015 and needed restructuring, having then expanded from the original Fillmore Street drive-up near I-25 (just recently converted into the new Humble Coffee spot) to Eighth Street and New Center Point. Having worked at much larger scale systems, this project was below Doug’s typical pay grade, so to speak, but once he got his feet wet, it rekindled a passion for working at a localized level with direct impacts. “It returned me to my roots as a social entrepreneur,” he says. “What did I know about coffee? — Nothing.”
Like so many people who’ve been hooked by the Springs once they’re here, Doug ended up moving here in 2018, and by 2019 he was purchasing the business. He’s since grown it to include a Phil Long Ford Cafe over in Motor City and the Hillside Coffee House; intentionally selecting the Hillside location to support the neighborhood as it wrestles with maintaining its historic community roots while gentrification circles about. A similar community development reasoning was also at the heart of expansion to Trinidad earlier this year. The Cimino family’s invitation to contribute to their vision for a vibrant local economy in their hometown was a perfect alignment with Kangaroo Coffee’s mission.
Aside from the physical growth, Doug and his team continue to center the vision for the company around community engagement, environmental impacts and employee development. What that looks like on the ground: “We support somewhere just shy of 100 fundraising activities in the course of a year,” he says. Donated Kangaroo coffee is served everywhere from the Cheyenne Mountain Zoo (Moonlight on the Mountain) to events supporting the Humane Society, Mt. Carmel Veterans Center, and on and on. (Just check our weekly Side Dish Dozen listings in this newsletter to see the track record.) Stepping out from his usual humility and owning the effort for a moment, Doug says, “what’s different about Kangaroo is the way we engage community. It’s not our marketing campaign, it’s what we do.” It is also what keeps him hopping as turning 70 appears closer on the horizon.
Given that Kangaroo doesn’t advertise in a traditional sense (as a Side Dish sponsorship and co-founding journalism for the food and drink community is anything but traditional), the community work is the socially conscious and more subtle calling card that reminds drinkers that Kangaroo Coffee is around, all over town. And the same eye toward building local economies has influenced who Kangaroo has chosen as its purveyors. Spanish Peaks as its roaster — sourcing organic beans from sustainable co-ops, of course — and a list of area food makers ranging from Share Good Foods to Organic Bliss and family owned Royal Crest Dairy to fellow Side Dish Dozen member The French Kitchen. Kangaroo is one of the rare businesses who actually pursues their zero-waste goals, which includes composting their organic grounds with Food to Power and the City of Colorado Springs’ Springs in Bloom program. “It’s things that fly below everyone’s radar screen,” Doug says, but simply put, it’s the right thing businesses should be doing (in my words).
So now you know Doug the pioneering communitarian, and his latest vehicle for positive change-making in the world. He didn’t know anything about coffee, but he learned fast, and more importantly he applied a lifetime of knowledge to the deeper systems and roots that underpin the whole effort. I said earlier that you don’t have to care about these socially responsible factors to dig Kangaroo Coffee, and that’s true. But I’d be surprised your next sip doesn’t take on more significance if you choose to see yourself as a meaningful part of the system — not a consumer, but a contributor.
• Nov. 21: Sip With Schnip at Kangaroo Coffee’s Hillside Coffee House (319 S. Hancock Ave.). 5-9 p.m., with performance by The Story Lounge. More details on special programming to follow.
Chef Noah Siebenaller returns to our scene to take partnering chef role at fledgling Evergreen Restaurant
In a big move for an only three-month-old entity, Evergreen Restaurant has brought on longtime Colorado Springs Chef Noah Siebenaller as a partner to spearhead growth that includes seeking a second location, soon.
There’s a lot to unpack there in that sentence, so let’s do it.
Firstly, you’ll recall from my Side Dish reporting in early August that Evergreen offers a lush European vibe in the former La’au’s Tacos spot, tucked away on the Colorado College campus across from the CC Hockey arena. It’s the continuation of a prior cottage/catering outfit named La Belle Melange, which creates seriously next-level pastries. The opening menu, with a full bar and fine coffee offerings (that includes traditional Turkish coffee service), is light, relatively simple, and fresh. Turns out, all of this is just the beginning of much more ambitious plans.
Enter Chef Noah Siebenaller, who at this time last year was just starting his new position as executive chef with New York City restaurant group Quality Branded, overseeing three of their spots in Denver’s Cherry Creek: Kini’s, Cretans, and Chez Roc. Prior to that he’d taken a post at Cheyenne Mountain Resort, and preceding that he had successive chef roles dating back to mid 2017 between Phantom Canyon, Beasts & Brews and Choice Restaurant Concepts (Side Dish Dozen members District Elleven, Bird Tree Cafe and T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila).
All caught up? Great. Let’s proceed.
Siebenaller started work Oct. 29 with Evergreen and will maintain the current menu initially, making immediate tweaks as he deems fit while he works on launching a new, expanded menu soon, to include apps and small plates. When I sat down last week to meet with him and Evergreen owners Alex and Lera (first-names-only used by request), it was too soon to say what exactly that will look like and I gathered that the chef basically has a blank canvas in front of him, with encouragement to create. “We’re growing so fast, we aren’t sure yet,” Alex says. “We’ve been cooking ourselves, and people like what we do, but we know we need to change, and we need Noah’s experience and ideas.” For his part, “I’m aiming for continued growth on the current success and to take that to the next level,” Siebenaller says.
Elaborating a little, the chef says he wants to keep a European focus at the forefront, with a mix of other international flavors, at a fine-dining level. “I always want to tip the scale on presentation, as we eat with our eyes first. Visual appeal is something we need more of in the Springs,” he says. “We want to compete with Denver. Cooking there this past year gave me a fresh take and a renewed vision.” He notes how tableside service is part of all Quality Branded’s NYC brands and really big right now in Denver, too. “Guests love it. You see the cameras start coming out as the cart rolls towards the table.” Alex shares photos with me from his phone of high-end eateries in Russia that he’s been associated with, and other elaborately ornate spots there that are inspirations for what he and Lera would like to see. Incredible dining room design leads the way, with impactful plate presentations following.
I ask if the small kitchen in the space is up for the task, as the team also mentions plans for catering and private events, in-house and/or off-site, plus collaborative dinners with other local chefs. Siebenaller replies with a laugh: “It will be tight, but I’ve done much more out of a smaller space.” While talking scaling, he mentions he turned down an offer with his former employer recently to head to NYC and open a 300-seat space: “I want to stay local.” Once the outdoor patio becomes unusable for the cold season, Evergreen will shrink down to just under 30 indoor seats. Hence a growth plan that’s looking for a second space and concept downtown in the coming months which will likely reshape the use of Evergreen’s space as a potential prep and sister kitchen with a manageable menu for on-site service.
All details are yet to come, but that’s the conversation at this point. Evergreen is a foothold becoming a springboard, but it needs to solidly re-situate itself before it’s ready to launch forward.
Goat Patch Brewing Red Ale Brats at Ranch Foods Direct
I’m excited to share our next monthly Schnip’s pick recipe with you: a flatbread made with Ranch Foods Direct’s Goat Patch Red Ale brats, Brie cheese, fig jam and caramelized onions. Oh — you didn’t know Ranch Foods Direct has been making brats with local Goat Patch Brewing beer for some time now? Well, now you do. Cheers. This recipe comes to us via Chef Andrew Borek from Odyssey Gastropub and Nacho Matrix, and also includes a fun, secondary boozy touch by using whiskey to caramelized the onions. Borek shares how to make an easy flatbread at home, too. Thanks to him for joining our collaboration in November. We hope you love this recipe, and anything else you might decide to do with these awesome red ale brats.
Brakeman’s is back at downtown’s historic train station
Brakeman’s Burgers has reopened for service (11 a.m. to 10 p.m., daily) after nearly a two-year hiatus, highlighting a new smashburger approach. It’s being operated under the Atlas Restaurant Group banner (which includes COATI food hall, PigLatin Cocina and Ola Juice Bar), while the Ochs family (who’d redeveloped the classic Giuseppi’s space into The Old Depot four years ago) still owns the historic building. Atlas took over operations in March, 2022 and operated until New Year’s Eve of that year before opting to shutter for redevelopment.
Atlas’ owner Aaron Ewton touts abundant off-street parking as one draw to Brakeman’s, which he feels is closer to the downtown action than folks realize — just a short walk down the street from Phantom Canyon Brewing Co. He feels Atlas is well-known for COATI, which should help put Brakeman’s back on the map. “People ask me what’s my affection for trains,” he jokes, “because we’re located in the old trolly building there, and the old train station here.” Turns out that’s coincidental, as he says “our mission is to help create a vibrant city, and this is adaptive re-use and restoration of a beautiful building. This place has a lot of significance.”
Ewton says Brakeman’s reopening is just phase one of a four-phase project that will unfold in-time to reactivate the rest of the building, which formerly house Tracked 10 Urban Kitchen. While future phases will likely see “more elevated concepts,” he views Brakeman’s as “everyman accessible” with relatively affordable price points for today’s economy. Brakeman’s lunch box, for example (served until 3 p.m. daily) gets you a Brakeman’s Classic Smash’d burger, side of fries and fountain drink for $12.99. (Upgrade to a beer for $16.99).
Atlas’ Culinary Director, Ben Hoffer — supported by GM and Chef for Brakeman’s Collin Waller, who helmed PigLatin for a few years — has elevated Brakeman’s in a way already, though, by sourcing “ethically raised” and “renewably produced” American wagyu beef from Black Hawk Farms out of Kentucky. (The quotes refer to claims on their website.) He’s buying brioche buns more locally from Denver’s Harvest Moon Baking Co. Those come together on the Classic Smash'd that I try, with two thin patties, grilled onions, American cheese, poignant house-made pickles and a 1942 sauce (named for the last year passenger service ran from the station) that importantly gets an infusion of the pickle juice as one ingredient. Ewton, who happens in as I’ve finished my meal, won’t disclose the rest of the ingredients, but says Hoffer created it to be sweet and smoky with a little tang. All that checks out in a bite. It’s a damn good bite, and if you want some heat in it, just nibble on the yellow hot peppers they skewer on top of the bun. Ewton says that’s how his grandfather down in Texas would eat all his meals.
I also order the Smash’d Hot Chicken Sando because I can’t say I’ve tried any of the now-plethora of Nashville Hot Chicken spinoffs around in smashed form. What I notice immediately is that with two thin strips vs. one thicker chicken chunk, there’s more surface area of breading which lends to a great crunch factor along with the house pickles for acidity that brings up the heat of the Guajillo-chile de arbol spice blend and grilled jalapeños, plus hot honey. Garlic aioli balances the flavors out. My nose runs a bit; it’s legit hot and also damn delightful. This is a train I will ride. I’m in.
Check Brakeman’s social pages for updates on a planned Nov. 8 grand opening celebration, with specials and deals, I’m told.
Bites & Bits
• ICONS was unable to hit a hopeful Halloween soft open date in its new space, but I’m told they’re tentatively re-targeting Nov. 7 as a viable launch day. Keep an eye on their social pages for updates. Meanwhile, check out our tap&table podcast episode with ICONS’ owners for a primer (and to hear them sing a beautiful tune).
• My pals over at the COS Business Podcast recently featured Gratitude sober bar co-owner Michelle Garrett, who shared her own sobriety story and the motivation behind creating the dedicated N/A space: “We need it. Our community needs it,” she says.
Relatedly, I stopped by Gratitude this past weekend for a couple drinks to check the place out. It’s a sharp space with an apothecary-looking bar-back and cool design touches like a roll-up bay door inviting guests just off the OCC sidewalk. I get a $5 shell of mild-tasting Bunny Hill kava, and from a list of locally-grown Microvora mushroom extracts (as just one optional drink ad-on) I pay $4 more for a pinch of (non-trippy and non-flavor-enhancing) Amanita Muscaria Crystals, said to have several health benefits. It’s a relaxing sip. While the Violet, You’re Turning Violet mocktail by contrast delivers a lemony citrus zing with blueberry, sage and blue lotus flower infusions that create a complex finish flavor hard to describe, other than it’s somewhere between faintly herbal and floral with a hint of fruit sweetness. Pretty!
• Springs Magazine published this analysis of how Colorado Springs ranks as a foodie city this past week, based on WalletHub’s recently released 2024 Best Foodie Cities in America list. Does it surprise you to find out we’re ranked “solidly in the middle”?
• Axe and the Oak Distillery and Whiskey House co-owner Casey Ross reached out to Side Dish this week to share news of their just-released, cask-strength Incline Rye Whiskey, which has been finished in Armagnac brandy barrels. It’s fairly hot at 112 proof, “and we’re incredibly happy with it,” he says. For now, bottles are only available in their Ivywild cocktail lounge, but A&TO’s distributor, RNDC, will have some soon.
• Chef’s Roots announced this week that they have partnered with Phil Long Ford Chapel Hills to open a cafe at the dealership, which is open to the public. Hours are currently 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday-Friday. Menu and more here.
• By now, you’ve heard that the recent E. Coli outbreak at McDonald’s (that sickened people across the country) was traced back to sliced onions and a distribution facility in Colorado Springs belonging to Taylor Farms. While Taylor Farms may sound like a local grower in the area, it’s not. The brand is a nationwide and multinational entity that produces a wide variety of greens and salad-related products and is a food service provider. You can read the company’s public response to the outbreak here.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
• Kangaroo Coffee: We're back in action at Weidner Field Wednesday for the City of Champions Cup women’s match between Colorado College and the Air Force Academy at 6 p.m. and then again Saturday at 6 p.m. for the Switchbacks home playoff game! Stay tuned for announcements about our "Story" evening events launching at Hillside in November.
• Bristol Brewing Company: Our spiced holiday ale is now available in stores in luscious six packs and we're celebrating in our Pub on Nov. 1 at 6 p.m. Also, we’re kicking off the 2024 Give! Campaign with a Give! Growler. Buy one for $30 and we’ll donate $25 to the Give! nonprofit of your choice. Then your next 10 fills are half-price!
• District Elleven: Join us from 6-8 p.m., Nov. 6 for a special Weller Whiskey Tasting: the full proof, Antique 107 and the 12-year. Small bites by Chef Dustin Archuleta. $25; limit 16 people so book early!
• Odyssey Gastropub: CC Hockey takes on Air Force on Friday November 1 at 7 p.m. BOGO draft beer and house wine before or after the game; just show your ticket.
• Goat Patch Brewing: CC Hockey Night in the Taproom, 7-9 p.m., Nov. 1 and 2. Our new winter hours start Nov. 3. Bleating Heart Night benefitting Homefront Military Network, 5-9 p.m., Nov. 5.
• The French Kitchen: You have to try Blandine’s unique pumpkin soup! Also, preorder your Beaujolais Nouveau now and attend one of our Beaujolais Nouveau classes, Nov. 21-23. “The class five-course menu is astonishing! One of the best we’ve ever had, if not the best,” she says. (Plus, students go home with a bottle.)
• The Carter Payne: Whiskey Church with Balcone's Distilling and the Colorado Spirits Collective is Nov. 6 at 6:30 p.m. Book now for our Vegan Spectacular: A Community Dinner, Nov. 9, 5:30 p.m.; five drink-paired courses, $75.
• Allusion Speakeasy: Princesses and Villains theme opens Nov. 6 at Allusion Powers. Nightmare Before Christmas launched Oct. 30 at Allusion Downtown.
• Red Gravy: Our Sunday Supper Club returns! Limited seats for second Sundays monthly. Nov. 10 features four wine-paired courses (all gluten-free) that include smoked salmon, duck confit, beef short ribs and Grand Marnier soufflé. $125 inclusive.
• Edelweiss: We are taking reservations for Thanksgiving now. We’ll serve our traditional turkey dinner with fresh Butterball turkey and all the fixings as the daily special ($35), as well as a limited dinner menu for those who don’t want turkey.
• Rasta Pasta: Come see us on Two for Tuesdays and get two draft pints for the price of one.
• Ascent Beverage: We’re supporting the Nov. 1 Carter Payne Dinner in the Veil. The distillers from 1874 Distilling in Del Norte will be in town to feature their spirits at this wonderful paired meal.
• Eleven18 Latin Tapas Bar: Come in for our Siesta Experience tasting menu: 10 small plates for $65/person; $35 extra beverage pairing. Or come for shrimp paella with squid ink rice, just one of our many menu selections, including vegetarian plates. Thanksgiving Dinner Tutorial classes run Nov. 5-20.
Upcoming events
• Nov. 1-10: COS Vegan Restaurant Week.
• Nov. 2: Dia de los Muertos Dinner at NEAT Whiskey House. 5-8 p.m.; four tequila- and tequila-cocktail-paired courses, $95.
• Nov. 3: Flying Pig Farm’s Farm-to-Table Brunch fundraiser. 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., Nov. 3. Food, music, goats and Palisade peach mimosas. Tickets: free-$50.
• Nov. 7: Opus Supper Club with the Debashish Bhattacharya Trio. 5-9 p.m. Internationally renowned Indian music alongside dinner. $33.85; cash bar.
• Nov. 9: Gingerbread & Jazz Gala at Flying W Ranch. 6 p.m.; $125 includes fine food and drinks, live music and the Gingerbread Masterpiece Challenge. Proceeds benefit the children of Early Connections Learning Centers.
• Nov. 18: Miracle Bar Christmas Cocktail Pop-Up at Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar launches for the season.
• Nov. 21: Sip With Schnip at Kangaroo Coffee’s Hillside Coffee House (319 S. Hancock Ave.). 5-9 p.m., with performance by The Story Lounge. More details on special programming coming soon.
• Nov. 23: Chili Cook-Off at Chuckwagon 719. Noon to 3 p.m.; $25 entry fee to participate; cash prizes for winners. (I’ll be co-judging.)
Parting shot(s)
In the above Side Dish Dozen listings I mentioned District Elleven’s Nov. 6 Weller Whiskey Tasting. These tastings are part of an ongoing series which includes similar tequila tastings on the T-Byrd’s Tacos & Tequila side of the building. All the tastings typically feature a few small bites from Chef Dustin Archuleta plus single-ounce pours from interesting and/or rare spirits. For $25, it’s a pretty good deal (which I would say if they weren’t a sponsor; it’s true).
Anyway, I attended the early October WhistlePig whiskey tasting, which these photos show was pretty awesome. First taster was a charred onion with onion jus, horseradish cream, toasted pine nuts and mushrooms. Second: blueberry glazed, braised pork belly with white cheddar mashed potatoes. And finally a limoncello tiramisu with crème de cassis macerated blackberries and a yuzu gel. Add in the whiskey sips — and, damn.
In weeks prior to that, I also checked out T-Byrd’s Fortaleza Tequila tasting. There, Chef Archuleta started with a tomato aguachile with queso fresco, sliced radishes and masa croutons. It was a powerhouse of flavor in such a small package. Then came a spectacular slice of duck breast white mole and sweet potato purée, garnished with green apple and amaranth microgreens. Lastly, arroz con leche with salted coconut foam, diced mango, pepitas and a buttered rice tuile. All creative, beautiful and delicious with the tequila pairings. If you want to attend one of these upcoming, book early, because there are limited seats.
Any news on Blue Star revamp?