New year, new journeys
Nakhon Luang replaces NaRai Thai at Rockrimmon; Odyssey Gastropub has new chef and owners; insight on the Tejon Revitalization's impact on businesses + more food & drink news & events
Nakhon Luang Thai Kitchen has replaced NaRai Thai Restaurant at 805 Village Center Drive.
You’ll recall that last month NaRai announced it would cease operations at that location after 18 years to consolidate to a single northern location — that being the newly opened White Lotus Cafe on Bass Pro Drive. (NaRai Siam Cuisine on Cheyenne Mountain Boulevard remains open.)
NaRai’s owner Jasmine Andrew was approached by incoming Nakhon Luang Thai Kitchen owners Badeebut “Lilly” Boonyapapong (and her husband John Taylor) and Chef/Co-owner Toui Phommalath after they learned of NaRai’s planned closing. They made a turnkey deal, which included furnishing and fixtures, inside of a quick month and a half for Lilly and Toui to assume the lease.
They’ve soft opened, with a grand opening celebration planned Feb. 5. (NaRai’s sign may linger for a bit before a new one is installed. A liquor license is in the works. Online ordering will launch next week.)
“The name comes from the original name of Bangkok (Nakhon) which is only one small part of this name: which is far too long to list here!” says Taylor, who’s handling admin and backend tasks for the business. “And Luang from a Laos city named Luang Prabang.” Lilly is from Bangkok and Toui is from Laos.
Toui is also the Chef/Owner at Lanna Thai, which he purchased a few years ago. Taylor tells me that Toui has a total of nearly 20 years cooking around the country, including at finer dining spots. He’ll be joined in the kitchen by back-of-house manager Sam Souvannakhom, who brings 10 years of experience with him.
Lilly worked as a cook for Toui for a stint at Lanna Thai, and also worked front-of-house at Chaang Thai and Elephant Thai. She counts seven years in the industry. Prior to that, she worked for Christian Dior in Thailand, developing “true, high-end customer service skills” says Taylor, adding “she’s very passionate about developing relationships and getting to know her customers. Since she’s moved here she’s wanted to work in the front-of-house to talk to people.”
“My passion is to share Thai food and Thai culture with people,” says Lilly. The expansive menu includes dishes like kabocha squash tempura; roasted duck drunken noodles; avocado green curry; fried rices and stir-fries; and black sticky rice with mango.
To sum it all up, Taylor directs me to the “our story” page of their website, which explains: “… our cuisine represents a broader regional expression of Thai food. The menu brings together classic Bangkok style dishes alongside flavors and techniques from Isan, Northern and Southern Thailand, and Lao cuisine… This is not street food, nor is it fast casual Thai. Instead, Nakhon Luang Thai Kitchen offers comforting, familiar dishes elevated through thoughtful preparation and fresh ingredients.”
Chuck this in your dutch oven
Ranch Foods Direct’s Callicrate beef chuck roast stars in this month’s collaboration recipe with Season Two Taste. It’s the perfect wintertime recipe. Enjoy!
A new journey
Tyler and Jenny Sherman recently sold Odyssey Gastropub, which just celebrated 11 years in business on Nov. 17. They will continue to operate Nacho Matrix. (Both businesses were Side Dish Dozen members this past year.)
I spoke with Jenny about the sale and what’s next. Firstly, she said any staff who wished to keep their jobs were retained. Among those who stayed is newly hired Chef Greg Bennett. (More on him below.)
As for why the sale, she said, “It’s a very challenging industry and it’s been a challenging few years for small businesses. Tyler and I are ready to move in a direction out of operations.”
That said, nothing’s changing at Nacho Matrix. She says it’s a concept they’ve just started and have no intention to let go of. Meanwhile, Tyler has launched a handyman/restaurant repair business (under the banner Dwell Well) “for all the little things that don’t fall under what Hawkins or Five Star will fix,” she says. (Those are Springs area commercial kitchen appliance repair companies.) And Jenny has started her own restaurant bookkeeping and consulting service.
I stopped by Odyssey recently to meet with Chef Greg Bennett and co-owner Sophia Rogan. Her business partner in this is Zhenchun “Billy” Liu, who I learned owns five other restaurants in the region, including several in Denver and Aiki Sushi & Ramen and Sushi Rakkyo locally. For her part, Rogan is new to restaurant ownership, but she worked at Sushi Rakkyo for several years, and she’s owned her own nail salon in Castle Rock for the past year. She says Billy asked her to partner with him on Odyssey and operate it. Though she doesn’t drink, she attended a bartending school to familiarize herself with the industry.
When I ask what Billy’s interest was in procuring Odyssey, Rogan says he wanted to try operating an American restaurant before he retires, as he’s only run Asian eateries prior. She adds that “Billy is lucky,” with his business success. But she says she’s learning the most from her Chef, Bennett, who compliments how quickly she’s picking everything up. “She’ll stay all day every day, grinding it out,” he says. “She’s applying herself and wants to be a great restaurant owner. And she’s put a lot of faith in me.” That includes creative control over the menu: “carte blanche.”
Bennett’s backstory starts in Tampa, Florida where he says he worked in fine dining and was part of opening several sushi spots. When he came to Colorado, he first worked for Tom Ryan at Tom’s Urban in Denver’s Larimer Square. Next came a couple years cheffing at Colorado State University Pueblo, then stints in corporate kitchens like P.F. Chang’s and Chuy’s. He arrived at Odyssey in September.
He’s since done one menu update, keeping about 40 percent of customer favorites, because he says “this place has its own identity and I don’t want to stray too far away from what made Odyssey Odyssey in the first place. I told Tyler and Jenny that I would do my best to keep the spirit of what they built alive and pay homage as much as possible. I want to stick to their motif of world travel, pulling from cultures all over, without a centralized theme.”
He mentions wanting to lean more into comfort food, citing new items like his flatiron steak with butternut squash purée and roasted vegetables. And a French Dip-inspired Drunken Onion Burger with beer- and wine-caramelized onions, Gruyere, black garlic mayo and au jus. He also wants to connect with local farms and intends to listen closely to customer feedback to glean what direction they wish him to go.
He’s tentatively planning two menu refreshes annually and possibly doubling that to seasonal updates. “I’m not a big fan of repeating myself and I like to learn as much as possible,” he says, noting that he traveled a lot while growing up. “I want to be consistently inconsistent — not a one-trick pony.”
Perception vs. reality
Last week I kicked off this newsletter with news of Oskar Blues Grill and Brew closing downtown, quoting part of a statement from the company, which read: “large‑scale construction projects intended to revitalize the area have temporarily deterred visitors… the immediate impact of road closures, noise, and reduced accessibility has contributed to a decline in patron traffic for many local businesses…”
I wanted to look into the accuracy of this claim as it pertains to the Tejon Street Revitalization Project and its impact on businesses. So I started with a call to the Downtown Partnership of Colorado Springs, which is to say I called my longtime friend and former CS Indy publisher Carrie Simison, who’s now their comms director.
Her team was able to share real foot traffic numbers with me, which come from cell phone tracking data via Placer.ai. (Big brother shit, but hey, it’s insightful.) They did a search for March 1, when the grant-funded construction began, through year’s end, shortly after it concluded. Inside of the Downtown Business Improvement District (largely spanning Tejon Street between St. Vrain Street and Moreno Avenue) foot traffic was actually up 4.3 percent year-over-year, with 9.7 million visits.
Searching more surgically, along Tejon from Platte to Colorado avenues shows 2.3 percent increased YoY foot traffic. And isolating Oskar Blues’ block alone — which was not directly part of the Revitalization’s phase one or two closures — the data still shows a 2.2 percent YoY increase in foot traffic, equating to 918.7K visits.
So that officially debunks the assertion that the street improvement project deterred visitors downtown, however disruptive it otherwise was. Simison says their data shows that despite the increased foot traffic, spending was down. “People still wanted to be downtown,” she says, “but they just weren’t buying as much.”
Before we hang up, we briefly banter about the stats over the average lifespan of a restaurant (widely and imprecisely cited online as anywhere from 3.5 to 10 years, while apparently 17 percent fail inside of a year). And we talk about how craft beer at-large was still enjoying its heyday when Oskar Blues arrived here in late 2017, preceded by its two decades of making celebrated brews like its Dale’s Pale Ale. That era is now behind us now, as 2025 ranked as the worst year for beer sales in a decade.
Anyway, on my next call, co-owner Bryan Bradigan at Colorado Craft (inside the phase one revitalization zone) tells me their sales were “about flat year-over-year” while construction was underway outside their door. “I was expecting it to be worse than it was,” he says. “You’ve got to go through growing pains anytime you grow, but that’s necessary if you want our city to be cool and unique.” He says the biggest thing they did to weather the storm was to plan ahead and have everyone support their fellow restaurants on their block. Essentially take it as a team.
A key player on that team was (Side Dish Dozen member) Eric Brenner, chef/owner at Red Gravy. He says he was intent on maintaining and projecting a positive mindset through the construction period, knowing that in the end it would be worth it for the streetscape improvements. Turns out his optimism paid off, and his books show that he was up 8 percent YoY in March and April both, and still up 2 percent in May, with some declines the following two months but a return to 1 percent up in August, closer to the phase one completion.
“And we didn’t have our patio open for a good portion of the year, meaning we lost seating, but still did strong numbers,” he says, mentioning the critical importance of making real-time operational changes to adjust to changing dynamics. He gives a current example of finding beer, wine and liquor sales down (in line with national trends) but N/A cocktail sales up. So his team’s underway with making new N/A renditions of their popular spirited cocktails for Dry January and beyond.
Echoing part of what Bradigan from Colorado Craft said, Brenner said he was thrilled to have the new trees planted out front, which received lighting for the holidays, making their block finally glow like the farther-north Tejon Street blocks. And the wider sidewalks were a big asset come time for the Festival of Lights parade, which annually draws tens of thousands of people downtown.
When he totaled his revenue at year’s end, it was almost directly in line with 2024’s numbers. “Demand for good quality food is still high in this city despite any complaints you’ll hear about the construction or parking,” he says, noting that in his mind, the real battle is still about independent shops versus the big corporate chains.
Construction periods can absolutely harm businesses of all sorts, as we have seen elsewhere around the city this year, including on the north and southeast sides. It’s also very possible that a certain establishment could experience unique pain points from road projects, be that decreased visibility or blocked access to a regular turnoff.
Whether Oskar Blues in the end was somehow uniquely impacted by being close to the Tejon Revitalization blocks I’m just not sure. (For what it’s worth, they were getting thrashed on their service by commenters online all this past week, including on my Facebook post.) I reached out to a number provided to me by their head office for a general manager, but did not hear back for further comment.
As for what’s ahead for improvements downtown, I reached out to the City to ask, and their communication department sent me a statement from City of Colorado Springs Public Works Director Richard Mulledy, who says, “We are always seeking additional grant opportunities, but the process often takes many years. An expansion of the Tejon Revitalization Project would require the City to provide matching funds, which we likely would not have for at least three to four years. This means we have no current plans to expand the Tejon Project beyond the two blocks recently completed.”
Bites & Bits
• Side Dish has partnered with KRCC and Colorado Public Radio for a monthly segment with Managing Editor Andrea Chalfin. The inaugural episode aired Jan. 7: Introducing the ‘gastro-diplomat’ of Colorado Springs, get the scoop on all things culinary from the Side Dish guy. You can read the transcript or listen to the 4.5-minute segment at that link if you missed hearing it live. As for the term “gastro-diplomat,” my industry pal Colby Schaffer wondered what other similar names ChatGPT would offer. It spit out more than a dozen amusing suggestions, including Baron of Bites, Chief Snack Officer (CSO), Palate Relations Manager, Minister of Munching, Envoy of Edibles and Chancellor of Chow. (I think I’ll stick to gastro-diplomat.)
• Right around the turn of the new year, Don Turi’s Tacos & Tortas opened at 4423 Centennial Blvd. Early postings on their social pages — with alluring photos — feature items like breakfast burritos and chilaquiles; elote and tortas; fried fish tacos with crunchy slaw in housemade tortillas; and flautas. Their menu also shows quesadillas, burgers, wings and more, including aguas frescas and boozy drinks.
• Juicy Kebab opened a couple weeks ago in the former Taste of Brasil spot at 773 Garden of the Gods Road.
• Persephone Grae’s Cafe has moved out of Manitou Springs (where it first opened in 2022) and relocated to 511 N 30th St., near where Uintah Street intersects with 30th Street. They grand (re)opened on Dec. 12. The shop serves classic breakfast plates and bowls; hot and cold sandwiches; salads, wraps and burgers; six variants of homemade smothered chips; juices and smoothies; and sweets like ice cream tacos.
• A car drove through the front of AI Sushi at 4655 Centennial Blvd. on Jan. 6. If you want to help the business out while the dining room is closed for repairs, the owners told KRDO that takeout orders would be greatly appreciated.
• Homegrown Tap & Dough — which launched in the Wash Park neighborhood in Denver in 2014 and has since expanded to five other locations — will be opening a new location in the former Jose Muldoon’s location at 5710 South Carefree Circle off Powers Boulevard. (Jose’s shuttered in January 2024.) I reached a spokesperson for Homegrown to ask an estimated opening date but was told “We're excited to share more when we have info.” (In other words, patience, eaters.)
• Ordering is now open for the Jan. 24 Afghan-Syrian Fusion Meals via Culinary Connections (an amazing program). Folks can now dine in at First United Methodist Church where the refugee chefs will share their stories and sell handmade items.
• Springs Magazine offers a preview of Tava House in Woodland Park. (Meet its key player, the Reverend Doctor Chef Victor Matthews via our podcast episode with him.)
• Here’s 6 new restaurants & bars you should know about in and around Denver via New Denizen.
• And for Dry January, here’s The 20 Best Non-Alcoholic Beers for 2026 according to VinePair.
Hoppenings of the week
Beer Events
Ribbon Cutting at Goat Patch Monument: Jan. 9, 4:30 p.m. Celebrating the rebranded brewery with live music, a beer tapping and Hoppenings raffles for Goat Patch Merch.
Beerio Kart At Westfax Springs: Jan. 9, 6 p.m. A single elimination Mario Kart tournament. Rev up the engines and raise your glasses. Top two from each race advance until a champion is crowned.
Murder Mystery Beer Dinner (Winter Themed) at Cerberus Brewing: Jan. 15, 6 p.m. $50 includes three courses, two beer pairings and a few intriguing clues.
Beer Releases
Bourbon Barrel Aged Imperial Stout at Goat Patch Brewery: Rich, boozy and aged in Wild Turkey and Four Roses bourbon barrels. This is a fireside beer (despite a weird winter) through and through. It’s luxuriously thick, unapologetically strong (at 15.5% ABV) and packed with barrel-driven depth that rewards your patience and endurance.
Spirit Guide No. 19 at Westfax Springs: Returning as a standout in the Experimental IPA series. This hazy IPA, brewed with Citra, Mosaic, Cryo and Nectar hops, bursts with juicy mango, guava and navel orange notes.
Curated by Brandon Heid and Gerry Reyes. For full listings of beer-related events and releases download the free Hoppenings app on Apple on Google.
Side Dish Dozen happenings
Blue Star Group: Now offering Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) wine certification courses at Ivywild School. WSET Level 1, Jan. 24, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., $350; a foundational course with guided tastings, food pairing and an exam. WSET Level 2, Tuesdays, Feb. 3 thru March 10, 5:30-8:30 p.m.; $750. A six-week deeper dive into grape varieties, major regions and over 20 wines. (No Level 1 required.)
Kangaroo Coffee: We’re transitioning to Toast POS to create smoother, faster and more seamless customer interactions. This upgrade helps our team process orders more efficiently, reduce waits and focus on what matters most: great coffee and genuine hospitality. Help us break in the new system by coming to try our Drink of the Month, the Misty Mountain Fog!
Goat Patch Brewing: Join The Patch Collective by downloading our new app! We have annual membership opportunities that come with awesome perks. Bleating Heart Night at all locations on Jan. 8 benefits the Palmer Lake Outdoor Classic.
Allusion Speakeasy: By popular demand, the rift between worlds is staying open longer and we’re extending our Stranger Things theme at both locations! We’re serving kids brunch Jan. 17 and 18 (reserve early!). And final nights will be Jan. 18 on Powers and Jan. 25 downtown.
Edelweiss: Join us for NFL Playoff Games in the Ratskeller, featuring happy hour deals on select drinks and $2 off appetizers. Jan. 11, 2:30 (49ers vs. Eagles) and 6 p.m. (Patriots vs. Chargers). Jan. 18, 1 p.m. (TBA). Jan. 25, 1 p.m. (Will be a ticketed buffet event.) We’ll be closed on Super Bowl Sunday.
Jax Fish House & Oyster Bar: Walking in the light... or joining the dark side? Either way, we’ve curated a special menu that flips the script on January. Choose your vibe with boozy or booze-free beverages this Dry January at Jax, where every choice is the right one.
Upcoming events
Jan. 10: Coffee Cupping Experience at Reception. 9:30 and 11:30 a.m. (Repeats Jan. 24.)
Jan. 10: Lumpia Rolling Party at Care and Share Food Bank with Baon Supper Club. 5:30 p.m.; $75 includes a shared meal, drinks, take-home recipes and hands-on class.
Jan. 10: Profs and Pints at Colonel Mustard’s. 5 p.m. Free, with an optional $20 sandwich, chips and cookie bag available by preorder. Beers for purchase. This month’s topic is Breathe Easy: The Environmental Health and Science of Indoor Air.
Jan. 12: Tequila Fight Night at Cocktails After Dusk. 6 p.m. $25 gets three cocktails.
Jan. 17: A Community Dinner at The Carter Payne. 6 p.m.; $45 includes three courses.
Jan. 17: Breaking Bread dinner with Baon Supper Club at Good Neighbors Meeting House. 6 p.m.; $95 includes six courses, with guest chef Isaiah Ruffin of Pizza by Ruffin (named Best Pizza 2025 by Eater Seattle). This collab pairs modern Filipino cuisine and the African diaspora.
Jan. 19-20: Nouveau Dining popup at The Wobbly Olive. 4-10 p.m. Featuring an Asian and Latin fusion menu.
Jan. 20: Neon Poker Night(s) at Cocktails After Dusk. 6-9 p.m. every Tuesday. $5 drinks; get an extra $100 in poker chips per dry good donated to Care & Share.
Jan. 21: Curious Palate Wine Experience at The Parlor. Exploring the Zodiac through the lens of vino. 5:45 p.m.; $40.
Jan. 27: Passport to Veneto Wine Dinner at Pizzeria Rustica. 6 p.m.; $89, five courses, a portion of proceeds to benefit Ukraine Power.
Jan. 29: Sip With Schnip at Stellina. 6-9 p.m. Extended happy hours with $2 off select apps and $2 off boozy beverages + BOGO gelato. Special of the night: Get any pizza and a half salad for $20.26. Guests will be entered to win a $50 gift card or free seat at the March Stellina Supper Club. Goodie bags for paid-level Side Dish subscribers.
Parting shot
Some photos are better without context. This is one of them.
I need to hear about Don Turi's. I just saw a reel about them and it looks like we'd order one of everything.
Thanks so much for the shout-out, Matthew!