Wine and dine
Kicking around Cañon City; touring Colorado's viticultural areas; celebrating Chinese New Year; eating bugs + more food & drink news
A couple weekends ago we dropped into Cañon City and Penrose on a short half-day trip. As usual, I kept my eye out for new or new-to-me (unvisited) food and drink spots. And I visited one past place I’ve enjoyed. Here’s a quick roundup:
Cafe Belay
A climbing-inspired coffee shop just off Hwy. 50 (on a frontage road next to City Market), Cafe Belay opened around a year and a half ago. It hosts a small inventory of new rock climbing gear and climbing decor, such as bouldering crash pads for seat cushions in a booth by the entryway. But the spot is also a legit roastery with a fine espresso counter — arguably Cañon City’s craftiest spot to date, whereas nearby Florence has the excellent The Pour House. Cafe Belay sells retail bags of beans and limited baked goods, breakfast burritos and salads. We grab an oat milk Colombian decaf latte that gifts subtle maple and chocolate notes. And we get a cup of pour over coffee made with a single-origin Ethiopian bean in a roast they’ve named Figure 8. (Since I do climb at CityRock regularly, I can explain to newbies that refers to the 8-shaped safety knot which ties a rope properly onto a climber’s harness.) The aroma that exudes from the beans as our friendly barista initially blooms the grind is wild, pungent and a little musty. That potency follows through with big flavor, not as much blueberry as I’m expecting (common to the origin) but it’s bright and lightly citrusy with deep earth undertones. It’s simply a great cup at a cool spot. Climb on!
World’s End Brewing Company
I’ve been meaning to drop into World’s End now for several years, and finally made the effort on this fine, warm afternoon. The place boasts more than 20 house taps with a wide range of common-style beers, even those that are out of season at a given time. We chose what sounded most interesting: a blueberry wheat, blackberry kolsch, blood orange IPA, Mexican lager, nitro coffee stout, and nitro porter. Results are mixed. Both the blue and blackberry beers finish a bit cloying with synthetic aftertastes, the blueberry cake-y and Pop-Tart-y and the blackberry evoking a urinal cake (sorry, it’s the truest olfactory association I’ve got). The IPA thankfully redeems the use of fruit here with a nice, bitter grapefruit-OJ finish; I like it. The Mexican lager is actually brewed in the style of “a Vienna lager south of the border” and finishes easy and Corona-like; it’s fine. We do like both the dark nitro brews but they finish surprisingly sweet — not bad, just unexpected. I ask the server who asks the bartender who calls the brewer who relates back that no, there’s no added lactose. (They seemed miffed to be bothered and said something to the effect of “everyone always asks that; if it’s not on the menu it’s not in there.” Ahem.) Anyway the coffee one drinks creamy and rich and the porter somehow finds faint flavors of a churro.
Penrose Pizzeria & Pub
I’ve been a big fan of now-four-year-old Penrose Pizzeria & Pub since I first dined at the spot in late 2021, discovering its truly outstanding dough. As I wrote at the time, “the pizza dough gets cold fermented for three days, which explains the phenomenal crust, all puffy and airy and crisp on the outside but soft and chewy on the interior, with a perfect, subtle salt kick.” This time, we go for the sausage & apple deluxe pie, made with olive oil, Mozzarella, Italian sausage, bacon, caramelized onion, dates, candied apple, honey, toasted pine nuts, arugula and chili flakes. It’s excellent, with sweet-heat notes, crunch, meatiness and vegetal counterpoint. A lot of PP&P’s pizzas are equally creative and unique with fine ingredients. Definitely drop by when you can and drink a cider made next door at Apple Valley Cider; we dig the strawberry-rhubarb flavor a lot. (My only note of advice: Even though we were close to closing hours, flipping chairs up on tables all around us when several tables were still eating reads kinda rude and uninviting in the end. It’s uncouth; just wait those few more minutes and enjoy your shift drinks.)
Yummy Thai
We noticed Yummy Thai while driving onto the far end of Main Street (opposite the Colorado Prison Museum end). I asked and was told it’s newer, around a year old. What caught me was the promise of Burmese food — we don’t have any in the Springs that I know of and I had an epic meal once in the Oakland, Calif. area at a spot called Burma Superstar. So I was disappointed after studying the menu for a bit, not discerning any obvious Burmese dishes; it looked all Thai. I pressed a staffer for info as we organized a to-go order (as an app to our future pizza at aforementioned PP&P) and they couldn’t answer my question of which dishes were dedicated Burmese ones. They disappeared to grab someone out of the kitchen and returned to point to a few items that still read mostly Thai to us. Oh well. We settled on a shrimp curry, and I do mean settled, as it was pretty damn boring and not remotely spicy at the medium-hot level we ordered. The menu didn’t mention potatoes as an ingredient but there they were in quantity and the onion-ginger-garlic-Masala-turmeric-curry saucing and seasoning lacked the floral, flavorful potency one would expect from that list. It ate generic and nothing like the amazing Burmese food I’d tried prior. Yawn.
Flavors of Mardi Gras
For Mardi Gras season in February we’ve got a couple recipes to bring Louisiana’s Creole/Cajun flavors home to you. Join us this month in making these hugely flavorful blackened pork chops with red eye gravy as well as a delicious side of red beans and rice. Each utilizes Gather’s high-quality, house-ground Cajun seasoning, available at Ranch Foods Direct — where you’ll actually find most of the ingredients you’ll need for this recipe, not just the regeneratively ranched pork items. Big thanks to Gather Food Studio chefs Dave Cook and Cortney Smith for creating such delicious food (and spice blends) that mindfully utilizes fresh ingredients from Ranch Foods Direct.
Grape expectations
Despite its numerous viticultural areas, Colorado’s still not really regarded as a serious wine state. Even in a recent press release I received on behalf of the Colorado Wine Board, the PR person prosed a list of wineries located near popular tourist sites as “destination dupes.”
I’d say indeed we shouldn’t disregard the state’s vineyards just because they’re no Napa, and relegating them to budget friendlier alternatives is an honest approach to marketing them. We know where we’re at; let’s not overplay our hand. But let’s celebrate what’s worthwhile and fun for long weekend away (if we’re talking Western Slope producers versus urban winemaking shops that utilize brought-in grapes). I first tramped the Colorado wine trail for the Indy back in 2006, and had “my cockles warmed.”
Anyway, said Colorado Wine Board’s press release suggests local wineries and tasting rooms found nearby “the state’s most unique destinations,” so folks can include them in their trip planning for the warmer seasons ahead. Below, I’ve condensed and lightly edited their list for brevity:
• Royal Gorge Region: From the Royal Gorge Bridge & Park to sightseeing on the Royal Gorge Route Railroad, this region encompasses Cañon City and Florence. Nearby Wineries: The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey, Legatum Cellars.
• Rocky Mountain National Park: The most famous of our four national parks in Colorado. Nearby Winery: Snow Peaks Winery (2023 Governor’s Cup Winner).
• Mesa Verde National Park: America’s premier archaeological wonder; the first national park set aside to preserve the works of humankind. Nearby Wineries: Sutcliffe Vineyards, Flying T Wine, Yellow Car Country Wines.
• Golden/Red Rocks: Golden is an idyllic former gold-rush town that is completely surrounded by high points — to the east are two high volcanic mesas. Nearby Wineries: Blanchard Family Wines, Creekside Cellars.
• Black Canyon of the Gunnison: No other canyon in North America combines the narrow opening, sheer walls, and startling depths offered here. Nearby Wineries: The Storm Cellar (2023 Governor’s Cup Winner), Mesa Winds Winery, Qutori Wines, Alfred Eames Cellars (2023 Governor’s Cup Winner).
• Rocky Mountain Resort Towns: The Rockies Playground is the region where you’re greeted with pine needle fresh air and thrill-seeking adventure, whether camping, skiing or appreciating the comforts of beautiful resorts. Nearby Wineries: Carboy Winery Breckenridge, Vines at Vail Winery, Continental Divide Winery
Attend PPSC’s Chef Henry Trujillo Memorial Scholarship Soirée
Join Pikes Peak State College Saturday, March 9 in The Broadmoor's Cheyenne Lodge for the 2024 Chef Henry Trujillo Memorial Scholarship Soirée. This experience takes you across the decades of Chef Trujillo's life to delight your palate. Tickets are $75 and help fund the Chef Henry Trujillo Memorial Scholarship. Support future culinary artists and experience gourmet flavors from regional food producers paired with local beers and Colorado wines. Attend, cherish and uplift. We're honoring Chef Trujillo's spirit — be part of it.
Bites and bits
• Just as I’m doing the final edit pass on this newsletter, news popped up about a fire at Trainwreck, with very limited details.
• Paris Crepe posted a note on its Facebook page on Feb. 1 saying to expect a second location “coming soon” to 207 B W. Rockrimmon Blvd.
• Indvstry Video Bar, which opened in late August in the former Gold Room at 18 S. Nevada Ave., has already shut its doors. I messaged for info and was told “the landlords are contemplating concepts right now” by a representative. I also reached Indvstry owner Jae Cho, who cited a financial shortfall due to a health matter.
• In last week’s newsletter, I noted the closure of Lulu’s Downstairs in Manitou Springs. Before I could connect with owner Marc Benning, the Gazette already had an update on Lulu’s relocation to the former Studio 32 Discotheque (which recently shuttered). According to writer Kelly Hayes the venue is becoming Lulu’s Downtown and will open “in the coming weeks.” Meanwhile, some prior scheduled shows at the old spot have been relocated to other venues. I’ll aim to update later once I learn about plans for the kitchen space abandoned by Epiphany when it closed.
• Also via the Gazette this week Stephanie Earls reported on the new beer-infused craft pizza concept just added onto Trinity Brewing Co., named Trinity Pizza Co.
• Side Dish partner Focus on the Beer recently reported on the upcoming Collaboration Beer Fest on March 30 in Westminster, with Springs breweries participating. Also, Cogstone Brewing celebrates its 8th anniversary on Saturday, Feb. 10, and if you didn’t already know, it’s Stout Month. Ryan Hannigan rounds up special-release stouts around town, including Storybook Brewing’s King Cake Stout and Bell Brothers’ Thin Mint Stout.
Wines from The Land of the Long White Cloud
Upcoming events
• Feb. 11: Lunar New Year Celebration at both Shangri-La Restaurant locations. Year of the Dragon; live performances by the Colorado Asian Cultural Heritage Center and Dragon & Lion Dance Association.
• Feb.13: Salad or Bust’s monthly (second Tuesday), four-course Collaborative Dinner, this month featuring guests Crepes-n-Go, Ascent Beverage Co. and Bitter and Glitter. “For each collaboration, the first course decision is determined by the partner and guest chef. This sets the theme for the meal,” explains Salad or Bust’s Stephanie Curtis, noting her house chef Erin Bray takes it from there. Tickets ($72-$82) here.
Early warning:
• Feb. 22: Sip with Schnip at The Carter Payne. 5-8 p.m.; free and first drink free for paid Side Dish subscribers.
• Feb. 25: Third Annual Chili Cook-Off at Red Leg Brewing Company. 5-7:30 p.m.; various tasting ticket quantities for sale.
• Feb. 25: Edible Insect Class and Tasting with Ephemera at Bosky. 6 p.m., $49.
• Feb. 27: Meet the Maker Monte Bernardi five-course wine dinner at The Broadmoor’s Ristorante Del Lago. 5 p.m., $250.
• Feb. 28-March 2: Wine Festival of Colorado Springs at various venues. Individual event prices range. (Schnip’s picks: the Winemaker Luncheon at The Warehouse on March 1 and the five-course Gala Dinner at The Broadmoor on March 2.) All proceeds go to the Colorado Springs Conservatory.
• March 2: Firkin Fest at Bristol Brewing Co. $10-$45.
Parting shot
If you haven’t yet heard about the custom cocktail printer at Chiba Bar, it’s worth checking out. The video below captures my drink being made with my Side Dish logo printed into the egg white foam (via a cabbage juice-based ink according to owner Michael Carsten). Guests can choose between preexisting templates (on a mobile menu scanned in-house via a QR code) or upload their own images. The process is fun and easy and the result is impressive — the machine can even do shaded portraiture. While you’re in, of course you need to eat a donburi or unagi bowl.
I didn’t know you could upload a custom pic at Chiba! I guess I’ll just “have to” go back and get another egg white-topped cocktail sometime soon. Darn.